La stagione in corso, che ha sfilato in passerella a gennaio, è il preludio dell’anno zero: dal prossimo vedremo – attraverso le collezioni primavera/estate che i magazine cominciano a pubblicare nei primi numeri del 2013 – che la moda uomo ha davvero voltato pagina. I primi dieci anni del 2000 sono stati di collaudo: da oggi si può parlare di coerenza stilistica, sebbene ogni maison abbia presentato e prodotto vestiti così diversi da azzerare completamente il vecchio concetto di macro tendenza. Tuttavia, in questo mix di proposte disparate e apparentemente lontane tra di loro, c’è uno slancio comune verso il futuro come non si vedeva  da più di vent’anni. Lo styling di queste foto di backstage, scattate durante un servizio fotografico in uscita a dicembre con abiti e accessori in vendita adesso, dimostra e anticipa un estro che appartiene ad una nuova era, fondata – speriamo – sul liberalismo e sulla bellezza.

This current season, (last january’s fashion shows) is a prelude to the year zero: by the next one we’ll notice -through the next S/S collections and by what magazines will publish by the very first issues of 2013- that menswear has really turned the page.The first ten years of 2000s have been a test. We can finally talk about stylistic coherence, although every maison has been introducing and producing pieces so very different from one another that the old concept of macro-trend has been reset. However, within the mix of suggestions which seem to be apparently so different and far from each other, there is such a strong push for the future as we haven’t seen one in more than 20 years.This backstage pictures has been taken during a fashion shoot that is going to be published in december, with accessories and clothes that are for sale right now, the styling discloses and reveals an inspiration which belongs to a new era, established -let’s hope so- on liberalism and beauty.

Total look Prada

Layers, weights and patterns, they’re nice but dangerous. A men who is gifted with personality and taste, can make an attempt mixing and matching unusual combinations without neglecting composure and sense of measure. Printed and elaborated fabrics can coexist, especially during the winter time when we can get layered. There’s a wide variety of choices but that could also be confusing, so if you feel like pushing the boundaries with an unconventional look my impartial advice would be to follow your instinct being careful not to overdo it: if it doesn’t feel comfortable it’s just better to give up. There are knitted blazers with removable linings which are as worm as a paletot, it is possible to wear them on top of a suit which should be in worsted wool and not in tweed or any other “thick” fabric, because having two similar kind of wool rubbing against each other is not flattering as it makes you look bigger. However there are some tight-fitting, sleek designed fabrics (almost optical as the twill in the picture) to wear in contrast with the jacket-coat thickness. To conclude, a small geometric patterned shirt to match the micro-windowpane check fabric of the outerwear in the same nuances would work. In this cases, to soften up such an original ensamble, one should keep the accessories classic and simple in order not to pointlessly force it. Yes, very fashionable, but with balance and common sense. Picture: knitted wool blazer by Giorgio Armani; Herringbone wool suit by Zegna.

Negli accessori, sorprendono le interazioni tra classico e informale, laddove brand come Hogan – più noto nell’universo sportswear – si aprono a nuove classicità e viceversa Hermès edita splendide sneaker. Nell’abbigliamento continuano a predominare colore e fantasie, sopratutto geometriche.

FAY mood militare

ALBERTO GUARDIANI WALLPAPER* collaborazioni inedite

HERMES sneakers color blocking

HTC chiodo in pelle trattata

HOGAN new brogues in nabuk

KARL BY KARL LAGERFELD perfecto in pelle argentata

MEMENTO II chelsea boots in pitone argento: so rock

MONCLER modern globe trotter

STONE ISLAND rosso vivo in cotone trattato

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND aviator style

CESARE PACIOTTI brogue in tessuti vintage A.N.G.E.L.O.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA monopetto in Silko, mischia di cotone e seta

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA classico doppiopetto tinta unita spezzato con accessori fashion

ZZEGNA geometrie ’60

Atmosfera movie anni ’40. L’abito era di Hugo Boss, la camicia di Maison Martin Margiela e il foulard di ZZegna. Foto di Francesco Carrozzini, styling Luca Roscini.

Atmosphere of the movies of the 40s. Suit Hugo Boss, shirt Maison Martin Margiela and scarf ZZegna. Ph. Francesco Carrozzini, styling Luca Roscini.