Shorts e felpa, Wrangler by Peter Max, s/s 2018.

My father used to love only western movies. Saturday afternoon was a ritual: second show – at 16 0′ clock – cowboys, redskins and horses. The fate of those poor beasts was a source of worry (“do they hurt themselves when they fall down?”). Till, on a rainy saturday, in full grey Milanese autumn, was the turn of “For whom the bell tolls”, an old picture show – precisely from 1943 – inspired by Hemingway’s novel, with Gary Cooper and Ingrid Bergman. I was used to spaghetti western, as easy as they were boring, and I was not prepared for a dramatic western at all. I cried so much that from then on I refused to go to the cinema with him, and only this year I made peace with western thanks to Tarantino and his Django. The modern cowboy played by Jamie Foxx captivated me, but I haven’t recovered yet after the goodbye scene between Maria (Bergman) and Robert (Cooper): the bracket has already closed.

The filmography of Eriprando Visconti (1932-1995) encompasses only ten movies which have been filmed during the 60s until the last one, shot in 1982. Visconti, nephew of the more famous Luchino, won the critics’ choice award at Venice Film Festival when he started off in 1961 with “A Milanese Story” but never became widely known to the general public and that’s why it’s hard to remember him. The 1977 movie “Una Spirale di Nebbia”, based on the Michele Prisco’s novel by the same name, which I have now miraculously found in DVD, really affected me as a kid. Although the memory kept taking me back to the scenes of integral nudity that surprisingly haven’t been censured (Novecento by Bertolucci came out the very same year) and the audacity of the contents, I also remember very well the intimist and plush atmosphere..foggy indeed, built around the screenplay and the storyline. It’s a crude and realist plot, laying bare the Milanese upper class hypocrisy. A very contemporary film. Today more than yesterday. In the picture, a scene from the movie with Marc Porel.

Da ieri, a Milano, i brand più noti hanno presentato le collezioni per il prossimo autunno inverno.
Nelle foto che vedete c’è una prima selezione, fotografata in questo primo giorno di press day da Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, dalla quale emerge anzitutto il ritorno del chiodo in pelle; mentre le maison di abbigliamento sport e casual sembrano prediligere i colori fluorescenti e decisi, anche per gli accessori che spesso mischiano la pelle al tessuto. I brand più conservativi, invece, puntano su tessuti, fantasie e accessori di consolidata tradizione anglosassone come il Galles, lo spinato e il cashmere a coste.

In Milan yesterday started the “Press Day week”: during these days, the most important brand present next F/W collections.
Here below you can find a selection from the first day, that has been shot by Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, that makes appear over all that studded leather jacket  is back. The leisure and sport brands seem to prefer fluo and strong colors even for accessories creating – sometimes – a mix of leather and fabric. The most conservative brands focus on the most timeless english fabrics and accessories, like the Prince of Wales, herringbone and ribbed cashmere.

Chiodo di pelle in versione classica, Tommy Hilfiger

Chido-gilet di pelle con collo di pelo, Yves Saint Laurent

Brogue blu, Salvatore Ferragamo

Cardigan di Cashmere con piuma d’oca all’interno, Brunello Cucinelli

Palette colori, Duvetica

Cravatte in maglia colori autunnali, Gallo

Borsoni weekend, Andrea Incontri

Tessuti fantasia, Luigi Bianchi Mantova

Camicie in flanella, Lee

Bomber, G-Star

Sneakers in pelle e lana, Vans

Camicie e bomber, Wrangler

Adidas by Jeremy Scott