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IO UOMO – L’ULTIMA UNIFORME

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The last uniform. Fashion inspired by military uniforms is a trend surviving through years, especially in menswear. At first designers took from them just the details, like the insignias that Gianfranco Ferré put on coats’ shoulders; later, in the 90s, Prada, Costume National Homme, Jil Sander and Dolce&Gabbana made entire collections based on charm and sensuality of this inspiration using simple and rough fabrics. Then, the fabrics became softer and dyed in blue, beige, even red, neglecting the original color, military green, indeed. Today is a trend that recalls the rock movements of the 70s, far away from the citation of Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket. Just look at the jacket designed by Kim Jones for Dior Homme photographed by Letizia Ragno for Style Magazine.

IO UOMO – SIAMO (TORNATI) REALISTI

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Back to reality. Objective beauty exists, indeed, even in fashion photography. Quality and beauty live despite of the clothes: a look can be average or can be too much, but if the picture that depicts it is beautiful, the value of that image will remain untouched during the years. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to explain why today we still appreciate the pictures of the great photographers of the past. Wind of change is blowing, encouraging a photographic realism inspired by the masters and, as like as in many other fields, fashion notices the change and often anticipates it.

IO UOMO – TARTAN MANIA

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Tartan Mania. Tartan is the typical checked fabric born in Scottish Highlands. Americans call it “plaid” (that for us is the blanket we use at home, on the knees, laying on the sofa, that, indeed, – often – has a checked pattern…). Whatever its origin may be, though Sean Connery and Ewan McGregor wear the kilt in official events, differently to Peter Sellers that wore it even out of the etiquette, after its coming and going on the catwalks, now it’s one of this season’s most fashionable fabrics. In other words, whether in form of a shirt or a jacket, this winter tartan is a must. It is not by chance that it’s one of the eight trends selected for Style Dress Code (above, on the left) the new Style Magazine’s spin-off.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO – UNFORGETTABLE

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Unforgettable. Giacomo Ferrara, 27 years old, before Suburra – The Series had already acted in the namesake movie directed by Stefano Sollima as supporting actor. Then we’ve seen him in Il permesso by Amendola and in Il Contagio with Vinicio Marchioni. But with The Series he has established himself as one of the greatest talents of italian cinema. Ferrara’s power in playing the part of Spadino is really great, a character that is bad but not so bad, with a noticeable “problem” for a criminal from a ruthless gypsy family that fights to obtain its part of territory in a very corrupted capital: he’s homosexual. Ferrara’s Spadino is one of those characters that lingers in everyone’s memory: he’s unforgettable. Unforgettable just like – I don’t overstate – De Niro in Taxi Driver. So much that he deserved an article on Financial Times.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO IL VINTAGE DÀ I BRIVIDI

48-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia6-2The vintage creeps us out. The enthusiasts of this genre are anxious about the beginning of the new season of Bates Motel, the prequel of Psycho, the very famous movie by Alfred Hitchcock. Transmitted by Netflix, the Tv series has been created by Carlton Cuse and Kerry Ehrin that claim to have been inspired also by David Lynch; and, actually, we can find some references to Twin Peaks. Bates Motel doesn’t take place in the 50s, even if it talks about the relationship between mother and son before the murder: the screenplay set the story today. But, detail that adds mistery and charm, the two protagonists , Vera Farmiga (Norma Louise Bates) and Freddie Highmore (Norman Bates), are dressed in 50s’ style. As two ghosts thrown into the present, dis-united in an obsessive relationship that will lead to tragedy. In the new season, Marion Crane (the girl of the memorable scene of the shower, played by Janet Leigh in Psycho), will be played by Rihanna: let’s see if she will wear vintage clothes too.