Legend has it that Tom Ford dismissed out of hand one of his team’s designers due to his suggestion to include a short-sleeved shirt in the s/s collection. Actually, it’s not a really loved garment. Because it mustn’t be worn under the blazer (the cuff must always appear from the jacket’s sleeves), and it requires, in theory, tapered arms, that only a few have. But in the 40s and 50s it was in fashion, among style icons too. Well, this year the short-sleeved shirt is back: with floral/tropical prints, made of silk and viscose or cotton and linen. In the first case, it’s soft and fluid, suitable for an eccentric, young and self-confident man; in the second case, more “rigid”, suitable for both young and adults. Frank Sinatra at Lewisohn Stadium in NY, in 1943.

Da ieri, a Milano, i brand più noti hanno presentato le collezioni per il prossimo autunno inverno.
Nelle foto che vedete c’è una prima selezione, fotografata in questo primo giorno di press day da Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, dalla quale emerge anzitutto il ritorno del chiodo in pelle; mentre le maison di abbigliamento sport e casual sembrano prediligere i colori fluorescenti e decisi, anche per gli accessori che spesso mischiano la pelle al tessuto. I brand più conservativi, invece, puntano su tessuti, fantasie e accessori di consolidata tradizione anglosassone come il Galles, lo spinato e il cashmere a coste.

In Milan yesterday started the “Press Day week”: during these days, the most important brand present next F/W collections.
Here below you can find a selection from the first day, that has been shot by Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, that makes appear over all that studded leather jacket  is back. The leisure and sport brands seem to prefer fluo and strong colors even for accessories creating – sometimes – a mix of leather and fabric. The most conservative brands focus on the most timeless english fabrics and accessories, like the Prince of Wales, herringbone and ribbed cashmere.

Chiodo di pelle in versione classica, Tommy Hilfiger

Chido-gilet di pelle con collo di pelo, Yves Saint Laurent

Brogue blu, Salvatore Ferragamo

Cardigan di Cashmere con piuma d’oca all’interno, Brunello Cucinelli

Palette colori, Duvetica

Cravatte in maglia colori autunnali, Gallo

Borsoni weekend, Andrea Incontri

Tessuti fantasia, Luigi Bianchi Mantova

Camicie in flanella, Lee

Bomber, G-Star

Sneakers in pelle e lana, Vans

Camicie e bomber, Wrangler

Adidas by Jeremy Scott