The elegance of mixing. Softness, romance and disorder, three keywords that depict a man that’s inclined to handle his own look, and to take the risk of not being completely in line with the codes of traditional menswear. In this column I’ve already written about what I think in terms of a more contemporary attitude, but I understand that mixing genres could be not so accepted by the Italian general public. Elsewhere this mix has been legitimized for quite a long time. But, you know: we’re one of the most conservative countries in Europe. But don’t say that Tony Musante doesn’t embody a universal and traditional masculine aesthetics. And yet, the “frilly” accessory doesn’t jar. This week’s picture portrays him in the backstage of Anonimo Veneziano, directed by Enrico Maria Salerno, out in 1970, one of the first (Italian) movies that focused on the hypocrisies of traditional family. Upstream and nonconformist, indeed.

We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

Trench, Sealup, fw 2017/18

Oggetto di culto nel cinema (da Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, a Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy), il trench, realizzato tradizionalmente in gabardina, ma riproposto sulle passerelle in tessuti high-tech e colori vivaci, ha attraversato le epoche e resta un essenziale del guardaroba maschile.
Dall’inglese trench coat, ovvero cappotto da trincea, lo troviamo qui in due scatti. Il primo, realizzato per The Men Issue da Michele Gastl, vede protagonista un trench in cotone foderato doppiopetto della collezione fall/winter 17/18 di Sealup (foto di Michele Gastl). Nel secondo scatto, realizzato (da Federico Miletto, con styling di Luca Roscini) per il numero di gennaio/febbraio 2010 di Style Magazine, il trench è firmato Burberry Prorsum, marchio britannico che ha fatto proprio questo capo di abbigliamento, rendendolo, con la sua fodera a stampa check, un feticcio per gli amanti della moda e del vintage.
Detto anche impermeabile, con allacciatura a doppiopetto, spesso con manica raglan e cintura in vita, è un passe-partout della mezza stagione. Styling e testo di Giovanni de Ruvo

Trench, Burberry Prorsum, ss 2010

Iconic in several movies (from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, to Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy), the trench, … Continua a leggere →