schema libero

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO ROMA, IL SET ETERNO

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The eternal set. It’s one of the iconic architectures of the capital. The Palace of Italian Civilization, in the Eur, restored by Fendi and headquarter of the maison from October 2015, includes also a space for exhibitions and public events. This is one of the many international sociocultural procedures about communication between fashion, architecture, art. The building was designed between 1936 and 1937, and finished in 1940, for the Universal Exposition that never took place. From the “peplum” to The Last Kiss by Muccino, the building and its surroundings have been the set for hundreds of movies. About the picture I chose, the great book Eur, si gira, by Laura Delli Colli, says: “For the fellinian episode “The temptation of Dr Antonio” in Boccaccio ’70, the filmmaker imagined a busty Ekberg on the advertising billboard “Drink more milk”. It had to be only a picture, but during the making of the movie, Fellini changed his mind and wanted Anita in the flesh”.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO RITORNI DI STILE

09-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia7(1)Back in style. A good photographic book to have is Linda McCartney – Life in photographs (Taschen). It collects the pictures taken by the wife (dead in 1998) of Paul McCartney; there are moments of domestic life, portraits of Twiggy, Rolling Stones, and obviously Beatles. Every picture is a little story; it transmits a timeless feeling. One, in particular, portrays a less popular personality than the Fab Four (in this picture, the Beatles wear a kind of fashion that reflects the vintage style of many contemporary collections): Tom Rush, that Rolling Stone defined as the precursor of the songwriters. Rush’s portrait by McCartney shows a location and a style that merge each other. And that can be today’s house and style. About “today”: the s/s 2017 sees the debut of the first menswear collection by Stella McCartney, daughter of Linda.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO È GRADITO L’ABITO BLU


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Blue tie. The tribute by Giovanni Gastel to Richard Avedon, for Style Magazine (2010). “Severe” light, off-white background. The models’ action counterposes the solemnity of the tribute of a great photographer to a popular predecessor. The models, like they’re dancing, seem not to care about the mess they create in the clothes: the movements dissolve the severity of a normally impeccable attire as the tuxedo is. Out of the fashion sets, in real life, we can imagine a similar ease choosing a different way of “wearing the evening”: for example, breaking black with blue.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO TENDENZA GENDER FREE


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Gender free trend. This week’s picture represents the origin of a kind of menstyle that, during the years, has changed its definitions but, actually, has remained the same since the 60s/70s, the same years of this picture of a young Van Dyke Parks, musician, singer and author, known mainly for his collaboration with the Beach Boys. Then, at the beginning of the new century, the “artist” (or “intellectual”) became a “nerd”. Today they are called new millenial, the avantgarde standard bearer of the “gender”. This picture, by Guy Webster, could be an adv campaign of Gucci or Prada: two opposite worlds that find a common point in representing a man that – against the rules- escapes from tradition to reveal himself in all his determination and, why not, his vulnerability.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO BRITISH NEL DNA

49-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia8British in the DNA. I don’t think there’s anything more appreciated by men like a beautiful tailored-made suit. With this kind of attire everybody can make a good impression. With a well cut suit and a british-inspired styling we never get wrong. The exception to the rule? If the matching with shirt, tie and accessories prevails on simplicity. If you choose, thinking to be à la page, fashionable shirt and/or tie and shoes, belts and socks, not balanced with the outfit, you make a mistake. It usually happens to overdo, to break the rules creating a personalized look with more “trendy” elements. No way. Classic wear, the real one, has such a powerful image that is more than enough. The proof? Look at how many teenagers dress like David Niven or Michael Caine. Coherence, naturalness, spontaneity: don’t force the hand.