Man, underneath. Men’s care about underwear has become as quite important as menswear. Several years of adv campaigns shot by popular photographers like Bruce Weber, Steven Meisel, Aldo Fallai for “signature” underpants and tank tops like Armani, Dolce&Gabbana and first of all Calvin Klein, has emphasized male’s body and given the right importance to a category of garments that was considered unimportant until the 60s and 70s. Choose the underwear that suits you best, depending on your body shape. Boxer shorts or underpants? It depends on you build but mainly on how much you feel comfortable with one or the other. And T-shirt or tank top? It’s the same thing, considering that – if they’re made of stretch-cotton – they helps to shape and improve even a flawed chest. Talking about the pajamas, in winter I prefer tracksuits, while in summer I like the classic one, with buttons, in fresh cotton poplin and preferably light blue.

Military licence. The uniform style: how many times have we looked for USA Navy shorts, a shirt with tabs or a jacket with golden buttons in second-hand markets in Camden and Brick Lane (London), Marchè aux Puches (Paris), Williamsburg (NY) or Porta Portese (Rome)? military style is always indeed a synonym of vintage. The point is how, and how much, the vintage (or its “imitations”) has to be mixed with current menswear, daring a match with the classic/formal wear. This is a little choice of suitable matches: creased shirts break the perfection of a suit, especially if the tie has the same old-fashioned taste. Same thing for the trousers: if they have a used appearance, they soften, for example, the clear silhouette of a double-breasted blazer. But pay attention to the accessories: if they are the only vintage items, they clash with the outfit that can be misconceived as neglected; so be sure to wear something else sticking to the point. Winston Churchill in the British Army officer uniform.

Friendly Classic. Living fashion with an easier approach. In other words: integrating a male aesthetic that mixes everyday clothes with more informal garments we wear only at home. I’ve always been annoyed by this kind of mix, in fact I’ve always looked askance at my colleagues that wear sneakers with the suit. But – partly – I have to change idea. Homewear mixed in the right amount with more classic garments suits me a little bit more now: maybe because I’m a fashion victim too and I’ve got used to such a young trend even if I’m a conservative at heart. It’s true that today lots of designers offer a kind of clothing that lies between sportswear and comfort. Basically, the strong effect of the techno/classic (the shiny blue lycra trousers with the blue coat: what a horror!) is softened, to advantage of a more friendly american style translated in contemporary taste. Ok, I like it.

The knot is tied. The art of knotting a tie (or a bow-tie, or an ascot): a leit-motif which has been handed down for decades on men’s magazines. Vintage illustrations, picture of models tying a knot in front of a mirror, and the list goes on. One thing is sure and indisputable: a beautiful tie badly knotted becomes an ugly tie. What’s more, there’s to be careful about measures. The tie’s width, that mustn’t be more than 6 cms, and its lenght. The end must touch the upper edge of the belt, it musn’t be longer nor shorter. I prefer the tight knot, thin, with that little cleft that in jargon has a bit scandalous definition, so I don’t mention it on this page! Choose prints, bright colours, knitting than the usual silk; give up, at least for this season, the classic regimental and prefer the micro-prints. Finally, match the tie with suits in the same colour or – on the contrary – break with contrasting colours.

In the 70s it was a typical style of the student movements, in the 90s it was a trend and today it’s in fashion again: knitwear used as a jacket or (more fashionable) as a coat. But it has to be thick, heavy, bulky; it doesn’t have to be cashmere necessarily, there are other extraordinary wools. If you like it and if you are sporty and a bit nostalgic, try the cardigans with jacquard motifs, fastened with a zip or – better – with a belt made of the same fabric; the classic leather buttons are ok too. If you are more fashion-oriented, opt for the long cardigan-coats suggested by many designers. Finally, if you are hesitant, well, I suggest you to have at least a turtle neck or a sweater made of  these amazing weaves that seem to be made with the crochet hook.