RUPERT EBERETT

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE IL DUBBIO DEL DESIGNER: STRAPPO O CONTINUITA’?

When a designer is being asked to redesign the image of a brand that made history, the biggest challenge is to create a collection that is going to reflect his personality while maintaining the brand identity.  Because of that heavy heritage the designer will find himself inevitably exposed to criticism and comparisons which are often purely based on rethoric. Designers like Slimane, who took the creative reins at Dior and Saint Laurent, respectively, have left completely behind the identity of the brand. Slimane’s predecessor Stefano Pilati instead even though sporadically, has been maintaining “the allure” so dear to the brand founder: we’ll see what happens in june, when he’s going to design for Ermenegildo Zegna. Nino Cerruti has left the brand Cerruti 1881 in 2001 and later on Aldo Maria Camillo became the new artistic director. He’s been designing the collection that is now available in stores, and he’s also been presenting the next fall/winter collection in Paris. “I am happy we have got Mr. Nino and the woolen mill involved because having the chance to create your own fabrics has always been Cerruti’s trademark” said Camillo which has been tipetoing his way into the project with discretion just like “Mr Nino”. His last collection feautures geometric and classy silhouettes, preserving the semplicity and elegance of the brand Cerruti 1881.