Imperial holes. The brogue’s upper was originally drilled for “technical” reasons. Holes helped to keep the shoe dry in case of rain or, vice versa, cool in summer. Today there are completely different devices: leather is processed in order to become actually waterproof. However, that early device is now a distinctive and ornamental sign. The brogue, born three centuries ago, lost quickly its original purpose, utilitarian and sporty, becoming an iconic accessory. Legend has it that Edward VII – King of Great Britain, Ireland and Emperor of India (for only one year, in 1936) – was the first one, as a prince, to sanction the swallowtail lace up shoes, wearing them during a formal event. Custom-made brogues by Paul Smith Personal Service. 

Original cuts. “Traditions have to be maintained so they can be passed on to future generations. In troubled times like ours, we must maintain these traditions which are our luxury and the flower of our civilisation”. It has been said, written indeed, by Monsieur Christian Dior; and Kris Van Assche, the current creative director of Dior Homme, used the original sentence and handwriting of Maitre Dior, as the leit-motif of menswear collection, as a pattern printed on outerwear. The idea of “maintaining these traditions in troubled times because they’re the flower of our civilisation”, injects a sense of pride. So that’s why we mustn’t forget that in any field  – from art to fashion and literature – nothing existing today would have been possible without an origin, a past. Christian Dior on the Times’ cover in 1957

Porta iPad Paul Smith s/s 2015

Una delle caratteristiche della moda di Paul Smith, da sempre, è quella di fondere ispirazioni eclettiche con colori e texture stravaganti, dando vita ad una conscia “sensibilità Pop”. Ed è proprio la Pop Art, tra le altre cose, ad ispirare il designer per questa primavera/estate: stampe fumettistiche alla Roy Lichtenstein campeggiano su bomber e maglie, ma anche su oggetti di uso quotidiano, come portachiavi e custodie per iPad. Dopotutto, dice lui, “Sono stato cresciuto a Pop Art e rock ‘n’ roll. Sono e sarò sempre irriverente”. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.

One of Paul Smith’s … Continua a leggere →

Maglione e camicia Paul Smith  f/w 2014/15 

Il fenicottero rosa: animale-feticcio dell’attuale collezione di Paul Smith, che campeggia su morbidi maglioni in tinta, T-shirt e camicie stampate all over. Un must-have per il fashionista che non ha paura di osare e divertirsi. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.

The pink flamingo: … Continua a leggere →

Friendly Classic. Living fashion with an easier approach. In other words: integrating a male aesthetic that mixes everyday clothes with more informal garments we wear only at home. I’ve always been annoyed by this kind of mix, in fact I’ve always looked askance at my colleagues that wear sneakers with the suit. But – partly – I have to change idea. Homewear mixed in the right amount with more classic garments suits me a little bit more now: maybe because I’m a fashion victim too and I’ve got used to such a young trend even if I’m a conservative at heart. It’s true that today lots of designers offer a kind of clothing that lies between sportswear and comfort. Basically, the strong effect of the techno/classic (the shiny blue lycra trousers with the blue coat: what a horror!) is softened, to advantage of a more friendly american style translated in contemporary taste. Ok, I like it.