RAF SIMONS
Gabardine croccante e imbottito e flanelle che sembrano ruvide, ma al tatto sono morbide. Colori accesi, contrasti e dettagli “importanti”. Le forme dei cappotti sono ad “A”.

SACAI
La collezione è frutto di un lavoro di ricerca sulle stoffe, ricercate e “vissute”. Bellissimo lo styling.

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Autumn/Winter 1994: the “second half” of the campaign, in the advertising language. The outerwear style was still very similar to the 80s one with its big volumes, so far from the tight-fitting one that came along with the new decade and changed completely the men wardarobe. Same goes for trousers, shirts and ties. And of course the waistcoat which used to dominate the fashion scene: knitted, deconstructed or made of fabric but always loose-fitting and never tight. Shooting locations were basically non existent, neutral backgrounds and quite natural lighting. The main peculiarity has been the models attitude: intimist, thoughtful, reflective. Sometimes photographed with the eyes closed, like the top model Werner, (on top) shot by Mario Sorrenti for Dolce&Gabbana. Photographer Max Vudukul, shooting for Romeo Gigli (another waistcoat fan), has been aiming for the melancholic feeling expressed by the model’s eyes, staring beyond the horizon…

Colori vivaci e pattern geometrici: sorprendono le proposte della moda uomo per la prossima stagione estiva, grazie ad un mix di toni accesi per l’abbigliamento ma anche per gli accessori. Grande ricerca sui tessuti, ultraleggeri con tagli laser per quelli tecnici e sovrapposizioni di intrecci per la maglieria, da indossare anche a pelle.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

ICEBERG

TOMMY HILFIGER

KENZO

PAUL SMITH

VERSACE

KITON

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS

CLARKS

TRUSSARDI JEANS

ETRO

Tecnologic accessories are being involved and actually used to create different forms of art, from filmmaking to fashion. Everyone remembers some scenes from 2001 Space Oddysseyand also the more recent Rick Gentry’s artworks which have been realized with floppy discs. There are many different cases of digital contamination even in fashion, (one among many the electronic circuit inspired prints by Christopher Kane). It’s even more surprising when a brand founded in 1837, it’s experimenting with this kind of creativity on the most traditional of man accessories: the tie. 8 Ties is a project the maison Hermes has commissioned to the french artist with mexican roots Miguel Chevalier, which uses computers as his main media of expression, (exhibition till october 27, Palazzo Morando, Milan).The installation, (at the bottom) has been realized so that each one of the patterns created by the artist becomes animated by the viewer’s movements, creating a special soundtrack. A second artwork, shows the patterns in addition to the french philosopher Christine Buci-Glucksmann’s words. The harmony in the classicism of Chevalier’s patterns, it’s incredible. It makes us see how pois and lines are really coming from a usb key and electric cables.

A great photographer and a memorable cover.Toni Thorimbert for Donna the super-slick avant-gard magazine founded by art director Flavio Luchini in 1980. The picture (on the left) is from the book Paperback, from a 1991 editorial where the subject was The Evening. Just like any other Toni’s picture, this one has a lot of energy :the models, just as they were dancing, seem not to care if they are making a mess with the dresses, creating a sense of peerless realism: it’s interesting to notice how this photographic approach can melt the austerity of a flawless look as a tuxedo. But even far from fashion sets,  it is possible for that nonchalance to be applied in everyday’s life, chosing a different way of “wearing the evening”, for example, matching black and blue.