paul smith

HARPER’S BAZAAR UOMO 1993

A typical 90’s styling, featuring some of the most mentioned brand of those years as John Rocha, Cult, Fabrizio del Carlo and Paul Smith, of course: his black leather jeans has been a must-have. The awesome Larry Scott (still long hair look), in the photo by Judson Baker.

SCHEMA LIBERO ALTA BORGHESIA

 

The filmography of Eriprando Visconti (1932-1995) encompasses only ten movies which have been filmed during the 60s until the last one, shot in 1982. Visconti, nephew of the more famous Luchino, won the critics’ choice award at Venice Film Festival when he started off in 1961 with “A Milanese Story” but never became widely known to the general public and that’s why it’s hard to remember him. The 1977 movie “Una Spirale di Nebbia”, based on the Michele Prisco’s novel by the same name, which I have now miraculously found in DVD, really affected me as a kid. Although the memory kept taking me back to the scenes of integral nudity that surprisingly haven’t been censured (Novecento by Bertolucci came out the very same year) and the audacity of the contents, I also remember very well the intimist and plush atmosphere..foggy indeed, built around the screenplay and the storyline. It’s a crude and realist plot, laying bare the Milanese upper class hypocrisy. A very contemporary film. Today more than yesterday. In the picture, a scene from the movie with Marc Porel.

SCHEMA LIBERO QUALCOSA DI BLU

Blue Snowdon it’s a photographic volume containing a selection of portraits by Lord Snowdon. Born in London in 1930, he married princess Margaret and separated from her in 1978. The publication starts with this line: “You don’t have a green shirt, white is too bright, black too funeral and I like blue” signed by the author; The subjects portrayed are people in the showbiz, fashion and art industry like Jeremy Irons, Calvin Klein, Joe Tilson and of course the British Royal Family feauturing a very young Harry from a photo taken in the year 2000. They are all wearing something blue. The book edited by Acne Studio Stockholm it’s an iconographic collection dedicated to the most classic color in menswear since the 1930s. The tecnique of simplicity ( which is a peculiarity of great photographers) and the use of natural locations, (as they are mostly studio and daylight shootings on location), increase the elegance of the pictures and also our personal perception of the color blue as part of our everyday life. Only one weird ecception: the Gainsbourg and Britt Ekland pictures are in Black and white. David Bowie on the cover of the book.

SCHEMA LIBERO SHABBY (MA NON TROPPO)

His physical attributes remind us of Marc Porel and Mark Frechette, the main carachter in “Zabriskie Point” : I am talking about Marco Bocci, better known as police commissioner Scialoja (from the tv serie Romanzo Criminale) or deputy police superintendent Calcaterra ( from Squadra Antimafia). He’s from Umbria like Filippo Timi, good looking like Alain Delon and versatile like Giancarlo Giannini. He’s also very polite, empathetic and professional on photographic sets. He’s not very tall and that makes it easier for us to “dress him up” in the biggest brands as they never make samples for the lanky ones. He’s gifted with natural charm. He has that look, long hair and a little bit of beard, which remind us of a 70s aesthetic that is coming back into fashion, more for the look itself than for the clothing. He looks very good in jacket and tie but he does prefere a more casual outfit in everyday life, choosing easy and wearable clothing in order not to draw much attention to his figure. Although, he does, have a nice figure.

SCHEMA LIBERO – DIECI RAGAZZE PER ME