orciani

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO RITORNI DI STILE

09-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia7(1)Back in style. A good photographic book to have is Linda McCartney – Life in photographs (Taschen). It collects the pictures taken by the wife (dead in 1998) of Paul McCartney; there are moments of domestic life, portraits of Twiggy, Rolling Stones, and obviously Beatles. Every picture is a little story; it transmits a timeless feeling. One, in particular, portrays a less popular personality than the Fab Four (in this picture, the Beatles wear a kind of fashion that reflects the vintage style of many contemporary collections): Tom Rush, that Rolling Stone defined as the precursor of the songwriters. Rush’s portrait by McCartney shows a location and a style that merge each other. And that can be today’s house and style. About “today”: the s/s 2017 sees the debut of the first menswear collection by Stella McCartney, daughter of Linda.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO BRITISH NEL DNA

49-MODA-R-schema-libero_Storia8British in the DNA. I don’t think there’s anything more appreciated by men like a beautiful tailored-made suit. With this kind of attire everybody can make a good impression. With a well cut suit and a british-inspired styling we never get wrong. The exception to the rule? If the matching with shirt, tie and accessories prevails on simplicity. If you choose, thinking to be à la page, fashionable shirt and/or tie and shoes, belts and socks, not balanced with the outfit, you make a mistake. It usually happens to overdo, to break the rules creating a personalized look with more “trendy” elements. No way. Classic wear, the real one, has such a powerful image that is more than enough. The proof? Look at how many teenagers dress like David Niven or Michael Caine. Coherence, naturalness, spontaneity: don’t force the hand.

 

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO ESTATE REMIX

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Summer remix. Summer, ready, go: last call for elegance. Be careful about fast shopping, the compulsive desire of something new and trendy is often a bad counselor. Be more thrifty! Reflect well, before buying the same old bermuda shorts, shirts, cotton trousers: you already have three or four of them, and maybe you’ve worn them twice. Look at our magazines and at the online fashion reviews without being fussy: “That’s a fashionistas’ stuff”. You’ll realize that many of those suggestions, that look too trendy at first sight, draw inspiration from a timeless style. That same charme that make you claim: “Men were so elegant in the past!”. And then, personalize your choices, don’t trust exclusively on total looks, take the shirt proposed by Tom and the trousers by Harry. Do the same thing for accessories. Choose what is more suitable for you, put the pieces together and the result won’t disappoint you. William Holden in 1939, ph. William Walling.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO YACHT CLUB

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Yacht club. That kind of menswear inspired by the sea can be easily defined as timeless. Yes to jackets (for the yacht), windbreakers (for the sailing boat), pullover made of cotton (for both), accessories for watersports. And, for the most elegant, yes to the classic double-breasted blue navy blazer with contrasting buttons for the happy hour. Why are they timeless pieces? The striped sweater reminds us of the pictures of Dalì with Garcia Lorca in the 20s. The windbreaker reminds us of the legendary Jacques Cousteau in the documentaries of the 60s/70s. Actually, the steel cronograph can be also worn in the city, as the white trousers, that perfectly match red and blue (but never wear them all together, they immediately make think about the french flag). In terms of shoes, espadrilles are allowed only at the seaside. Jacques Cousteau on the Calypso, ex minesweeper of the Royal Navy, after a diving exploration.

IO DONNA SCHEMA LIBERO UOMINI, CHE BARBA

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Men with the beard. Beard: yes or no? Today we say yes. Like yesterday and the day before, after all. Like in the Seventies, and back to the beginning of the twentieth century. Trends that come and go, that last long, that vanish and then come back. Ladies, if you hate the shiver you feel when a bearderd man kisses you, live with it. Whereas, if you love that sensation of virility that causes redness on your pale complexion, exult. Someone could say that we look “untidy”, that beard makes us look dirty (sometimes it’s true: remember to wash it well, there are specific products), that we look all the same. The same happened, after the 68, with those manes à la Jim Morrison, that today make you exclaim: “Men were much more handsome in the past”. But at that time it was a trend too. And talking about trends in menswear: now that shapes are more loose, you regret that slim-fit trousers that have been in fashion until a couple of seasons ago. When you used to say: “These make your legs look like two toothpicks”. Conclusion: ladies, we can’t please you. You are too ahead of your time, or too capricious. Make up your mind. Clint Eastwood with an armadillo on the set of Two Mules for Sister Sara (1970)