We dressed the American style. Today at the Metropolitan Museum in New York opens the first part of the exhibition In America: A Lexicon of Fashion; the second one – An Anthology of Fashion – is going to open in May 2022. In terms of self-celebration the Americans are champions; just like the French. Lucky them. But in terms of fashion, luxury brands are rare exceptions. On the other hand they’re brilliant communicators, brave and skilled in marketing, but not always able to leave the mark with memorable collections. “American fashion” is, indeed, more referred to an idea of style and talks about a self-referential culture, everything but inclusive. “American fashion” is Brooke Shields in Calvin Klein denim, Ralph Lauren’s Hamptons, the Studio 54 star system celebrated by Halston. It’s a mood. Not by chance the ambassador of fashion worldwide has been an Italian, Franca Sozzani. Anna Wintour has never been able to bring Italian and French designers on New York catwalks, like she’d like to (for years).

Fin dal primo giorno di PRESS-DAY emerge la caratteristica dominante delle collezioni per la prossima primavera/estate, non tanto attraverso delle macro tendenze comuni (eccetto il colore, praticamente onnipresente), bensì espressa grazie ad un evidente slancio dei designer di moda proteso verso il futuro. È, questo, l’anno dell’ “ingresso” in una nuova fase di creatività che proietta in una nuova era, che personalmente definisco come l’anno zero.

MICHAEL KORS

UP TO BE

TOD’S

GANT