A well displayed chronograph worn on top of a tailored shirt cuff. Then we have two precious rings- the first one it’s a remarkable ring (by Gucci), the second one it’s a wedding ring (by Chopard) classic regimental suspenders (by Brooks Brothers), tieclip (by Paul Smith) and of course the tie, regimental as well. All peculiarities that distinguish men which are included in the history of style, “the Lawyer” and John Kennedy, and objects that many of us are keeping in the drawer and not using anymore. The new traditional menswear it’s luxurious and strong, inspiring men to consider a style that is coming back: a determined contemporary man, with a  maniacal obsession with grooming, and a strong inclination for success. An ambitious kind of man, sometimes arrogant, which requires a polished look indeed. Such display of confidence can appear irritating but it doesn’t have to be condemned tout court: when it’s not exhibitionism  it’s just a form of  respect, for ourselves and  others.

W

SI

Le luci di Jurgen Teller non risparmiano i difetti, anzi, li accentuano. La bellezza del soggetto non c’entra, se comprate il magazine americano, nello stesso servizio trovate una foto di Matthew McConaughey dove sembra un mostro: lo styling è molto semplice, direi casuale, eppure funziona. A me non piacciono le scarpe stringate con il jeans ma queste hanno la punta arrotondata e soprattutto non sono nere, quindi per me è ok.

YES

Jurgen Teller’s lightning have no mercy emphasizing flaws. It has nothing to do with the beauty of the subject. If you get the american magazine, on the very same editorial you will see a picture of Mattew McConaughey looking like hell: a very simple styling, almost randomly put together but it works. I don’t really like lace-up shoes  with jeans in general but those are round toe shoes and they are not black , so it’s fine by me .

ESQUIRE USA

NO

Volevano ringiovanire Bacon con uno styling sportivo? Pessima idea. La maglia a V sulla nuda pelle è controindicata dopo una certa età ed è anche passata di moda tra l’altro, e la stringata a punta sotto il jeans (troppo attillato) è molto volgare. Mi chiedo cosa avrà detto l’agente dell’attore dopo aver visto questo scatto: forse nulla, dato che probabilmente sarà americano.

NO

If the intent was to make Bacon look younger with a sporty look it just didn’t work.Is better not to wear v-neck shirts on your bare skin over a certain age and it’s also out of fashion. Also lace up tapered shoes with (way too skinny!) jeans, look vulgar. I wonder what his agent thought about the picture: maybe nothing since he’s probably american,.

… Continua a leggere →

Ennio Capasa talks to Alessandro Calascibetta about the current Costume National Homme collection: his imaginary trip from London to Africa inspired by David Bowie has created new shapes.

Total look means dressing up from head to toe in just one brand or style. It’s a difficult and dangerous option, it’s best to choose carefully because it’s a damn fine line between  glamour and grotesque. In this specific case we have a total look Versace which is now available in stores: colorful floral patterns on white and the neo-classical greek freet , a common decorative element in greek and roman art which has become the symbol of the maison since the beginning. For this shot the stylist choose golden metal chains and bracialets adding opulence to the picture and that is the point: if it has to be “total” then it better be exasperated to the nth degree with no hesitations. The outfit is not enough though, it’s the typology of men that counts. To wear such an exceptional and “scenographic” look one should be an incarnation of celebrity beauty standards:  outstanding beauty,  height and  body structure, worthy of the name Versace. Perhaps it’s better to opt for a  classic total look, all fashion designers including Versace want the fashion show to represent their own world but looking  through their boutique clothes and accessories it’s definitely possible to find plenty of more traditional choices.