Women who dress up men, or rather, when the designer is a woman. They would like to see us sensitive but not soppy. Elegant but not affected and masculine without showing any sign of machismo. Donatella Versace is an exception, she has been preserving the sensuality of his brother’s collections and she has been respecting not only the way he has imprinted on them but also the public’s expectations. Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons)and Miuccia Prada instead, would like to see man changing their wardrobes every season: they are eclectic, intellectuals, futurists, they are also willing to change their idea of fashion however maintaining their personal style. To make ourselves understood, a piece of Prada is highly recognizable, even if colors and shapes keep changing through the years. Silvia Venturini Fendi really prefers an unconventional man, who’s bold enough to wear fur and who’s not afraid of considering frivolous undertones when he chooses his fabrics. Also Veronique Nichanian, creative director of Hermès’ menswear line since 1998, opts for traditional style coupled with dandy influences: silken shirts, silken scarves with peculiar patterns and shades like the sienna, mustard yellow and bluette. Brilliant references and innuendos which through the years built a kind of menswear designed by women that is most assuredly timeless. Picture by Marcus Gaab from M 2007. The model is wearing a Fendi Blazer and an Hermès shirt.
