Italian actor Fabio Tameni in a cool multilayered styling by Carlo Ortenzi. Photo by Luigi Miano.

Foto Luigi Miano
A cura di Gioele Panedda
Styling Carlo Ortenzi
Grooming Astor Hoxa using Shu Uemura Art of Hair
Modello Dutty Wruck @Elite

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In a fashion shooting production, the stylist mixes clothes and sets them on the basis of his creativity. The fitting of the picture I’ve choosen for this week seems to be a risk: it’s known that two overlaid jackets actually don’t represent an applicable outfit but, in situations like this, wherein the subject has a thin build and blazers are made by soft and unlined wool, the final effect is really interesting. That man reader, little used to editors’ flair and fashion’s oddity, doesn’t have to think that these suggestions have to be taken to the letter: stylist’s skill stays in catching the reader’s attention on fabric’s beauty, prints’ opulence and – why not – photographic effect, that in this case is worthy to be included among those shots that will leave a style mark in fashion photography. In this shoot by Miano, side light creates shades on the actor’s (Fabio Tameni) face and on clothes (by Paul Smith), giving back that magic that only good photographers can give. If you feel like browsing books about great masters – from Irving Penn to Mario Sorrenti- you’ll find the same charm, the same splendour. And the same elegance. Fabio Tameni in Luigi Miano’s picture for Max.gazzetta.it. Clothes by Paul Smith, October 2012.

When the coat becomes an accessory. There are very strict rules about clothing: for example, the last button of the jacket must be kept unfastened and the single-breasted suit must be buttoned only if we wear a coat or a trench on it. But the dress etiquette is more open-minded than yesterday, easing a wider freedom of choice and manners, because fashion, also male fashion, is for its definition renewal and change. Some time ago I read an article written by a colleague, that deprecated some details, two of which particularly stroke me: absolute no to polo shirt’s lifted collar and to the coat (or jacket) leant on the shoulders. I completely agree with the first one: the lifted collar is a sign of ostentation and arrogance, moreover of little refinement. The outerwear leant and not worn, that is usually  a result of a temporary situation of comfort, can reveal a certain kind of nonchalance that disgress in dandysm. A self-conscious posture can afford to wear a piece of cloth as an accessory: it could be a very chic attitude, especially if the subject is chic. Aaron Olzer, photographer and movie-maker, in a picture by Luigi Miano for max.gazzetta.it