The man and the sea. The marinière was born in 1858, when it was included in the official uniform of the French Navy. It has also another name: “breton”, related to Brittany, where it was worn for the first time by fishermen. And the fishermen of Deauville, Normandy, gave Coco Chanel the idea of her striped sweater with the boat neck: but this is certainly a men’s garment. The marinière refers to a maritime atmosphere and it’s usually reintroduced in s/s collections but, if the knitting is thick, it could also work for the f/w season. From the 50s on, the breton has gone round the world: from Sartre to James Dean, to Cary Grant (in To Catch a Thief), and in the 80s appeared on the catwalk thanks to Jean Paul Gaultier, that Pierre et Gilles portrayed with imaginative irony. Jean Paul Gaultier in a famous picture by Pierre et Giles (1990).

A scenographic interpretation of Jean-Paul Gaultier‘s fashion by Marco Lanza for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo with one of the most popular top models of those years: Cameron (he was in the Madonna’s video “Express Yourself”). Art Direction Alessandro Calascibetta. This picture will be in the catalogue of the Gaultier exhibition starting on April 1st 2015 at Grand Palais, Paris.  

Peaked lapels and silk twill gave a unique magic to this white single-breasted jacket by Gucci: nowadays it’s still fashionable. The satin scarf by Jean Paul Gaultier Homme added charme to the dandy appearance we wanted to recreate. Picture by Cristina Meriggi.

Dark leather menswear is back from the 90’s. The trend started over again since last year’s fall winter collections. Photo by Larry Scott. Coat by Emporio Armani, waistcoat by Jean Paul Gaultier, trousers by Les Hommes.

ISSEY MIYAKE
Silver, gold e tessuti inediti. Sportiva con zone di “classico”. Una moda fuori dal coro, con l’impronta (forte) segnata dal ritorno di Miyake in persona (già alla seconda stagione) a capo del team creativo.

LOUIS VUITTON
La collezione ribadisce un concetto di lusso trasversale, che piace non solo ai modaioli. I paletot e i blouson con il cappuccio e il collo in pelliccia sono già un must-have.

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