Nostalgic feeling. This stolen pic by Paolo di Paolo, a kind of ante-litteram Scott Schuman, is from 1960. The man you see in it, half-lying on the raling of the Fontana dei Fiumi in Piazza Navona, is composed in his uncomposure. He is Un-Composed. Probably the jacket is buttoned even if it’s single-breasted (that shouldn’t be buttoned), because otherwise it would dangle, adding more disorder. Probably, if this picture was set today, this man wouldn’t wear anything like this. Try to imagine: unlaced sneakers, baggy sweater, jeans or gym pants. Or shorts. And, of course, instead of the newspaper, he would hold an iPhone or iPad. Don’t you miss that ‘900 style?

We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

The art of matching. Selecting the proper accessories that matches your look seems easy, but even a little detail can ruin everything. To reduce the risks, respect the rule that want every accessory, from hat to socks, to be in pendant with the outfit; and no mistakes allowed even concerning the fabrics: there are also rules about matching different materials in the proper way. For example: don’t match cashmere with shearling, yes to shearling with tweed. Rather is better to opt for a complete change of fabric: nylon hat with camelhair coat. But personality is required, as well as for wearing red socks with a blue suit or sneakers with jeans: this is so obvious that the sneakers have to be really, really special. But if you have classic tastes, stay classic: blue with blue and denim only with desert boots.

Forever pinstripe. If it’s true that rules are made to be broken, it’s also true that the suit is the basis of menswear. Into reasonable limits, elegance of the past remains an unavoidable reference. Basing on many and different suggestions of fashion, we can opt for our favourite reference, avoiding others. Pinstripe is a classic: the picture I’ve chosen for this week has a cinematographic mood, inspired by Il Padrino. Not to highlight the vintage glamour of the pinstriped suit, choose a jacket with very wide lapels and add a rock touch, like the silver rings. And a clean grooming: no to long and blow-dried hair, no to pomade, yes to a military cut. But the last word is, as always, yours.

His Vanity. Until the 60s, the only jewels allowed for men were cufflinks and the wedding ring. At most the tie clip, some used to wear the gold chain received for the first Holy Communion. Jewels became a trend for men in the 70s: young people drew inspiration from the rockstars, so the first silver bracelets started to peek out. Later there were the yellow gold bracelets, in form of rectangular plates matched with leather strings. From the years of minimalism on, the inspiration was punk and its symbologies. And from Slimane for Dior Homme and Margiela, to the funny creations by Paul Smith, and the jewelry collection by Dolce&Gabbana, many designers have indulged the most hidden side of men’s vanity.