hermés

SCHEMA LIBERO FUNKY WEATHER

 

“Stormbringer” is the funkiest Deep Purple’s album. It came out at the end of 1974 in full “austerity” period, reaching a breaking point with hard rock: the homonym single was as danceable as “Smoke on the Water” from the older album “Made in Japan ” but more soul. The visual impact of the illustration on the cover was suggesting a stormy scenario (although the title was exhaustive enough) and a statement of intent throught the use of colors, mainly purple, yellow and orange. Such cover desearves to be included among the strongest in history of discography, it represent contemporary anxiety in its very own way addressing several analogies with a certain kind of fashion aesthetic which is currently in style for men’s clothing. In the picture the cover of “Stormbringer” by Deep Purple.

PARIS FASHION WEEK – DAY 3

RAF SIMONS
Gabardine croccante e imbottito e flanelle che sembrano ruvide, ma al tatto sono morbide. Colori accesi, contrasti e dettagli “importanti”. Le forme dei cappotti sono ad “A”.

SACAI
La collezione è frutto di un lavoro di ricerca sulle stoffe, ricercate e “vissute”. Bellissimo lo styling.

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SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE SE E’ LA DONNA CREATIVA A RIVESTIRE IL MASCHIO

Women who dress up men, or rather, when the designer is a woman. They would like to see us sensitive but not soppy. Elegant but not affected and masculine without showing any sign of machismo. Donatella Versace is an exception, she has been preserving the sensuality of his brother’s collections and she has been respecting not only the way he has imprinted on them but also the public’s expectations. Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons)and Miuccia Prada instead, would like to see man changing their wardrobes every season: they are eclectic, intellectuals, futurists, they are also willing to change their idea of fashion however maintaining their personal style. To make ourselves understood, a piece of Prada is highly recognizable, even if colors and shapes keep changing through the years. Silvia Venturini Fendi really prefers an unconventional man, who’s bold enough to wear fur and who’s not afraid of considering frivolous undertones when he chooses his fabrics. Also Veronique Nichanian, creative director of Hermès’ menswear line since 1998, opts for traditional style coupled with dandy influences: silken shirts, silken scarves with peculiar patterns and shades like the sienna, mustard yellow and bluette. Brilliant references and innuendos which through the years built a kind of menswear designed by women that is most assuredly timeless. Picture by Marcus Gaab from M 2007. The model is wearing a Fendi Blazer and an Hermès shirt.

 

 

SCHEMA LIBERO MESCOLANZE

I enjoy taking risks mixing up styles from different eras. I am fascinated by the good results one can obtain by mixing different styles, in fashion but also in design. In the late 80s I used to match shirts and waistcoats by Romeo Gigli with ties and trousers by Armani. I just adored the contrast between different fabrics, Gigli’s cotton peach skin fabric and Armani’s crispy wool. I also love how these materials fit differently: tight-fitting the first one, loose fitting the second. The same goes for design: at the Angelo’s bistrot in Milan, there are original floors in warm shades from the 40s and austere 50s german school chairs together with modern artworks which have been realized on panels by the two danish artists Uffe Frank and Sonny Asemota. They are apparently very distant visual codes and expressions but once together they are surprisingly relatable to each other. In the picture a corner of the Angelo’s bistrot in Via Savona, Milan.

SPRING/SUMMER 2013: The Main Trends 3

Negli accessori, sorprendono le interazioni tra classico e informale, laddove brand come Hogan – più noto nell’universo sportswear – si aprono a nuove classicità e viceversa Hermès edita splendide sneaker. Nell’abbigliamento continuano a predominare colore e fantasie, sopratutto geometriche.

FAY mood militare

ALBERTO GUARDIANI WALLPAPER* collaborazioni inedite

HERMES sneakers color blocking

HTC chiodo in pelle trattata

HOGAN new brogues in nabuk

KARL BY KARL LAGERFELD perfecto in pelle argentata

MEMENTO II chelsea boots in pitone argento: so rock

MONCLER modern globe trotter

STONE ISLAND rosso vivo in cotone trattato

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND aviator style

CESARE PACIOTTI brogue in tessuti vintage A.N.G.E.L.O.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA monopetto in Silko, mischia di cotone e seta

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA classico doppiopetto tinta unita spezzato con accessori fashion

ZZEGNA geometrie ’60