harper’s bazaar uomo

HARPER’S BAZAAR UOMO 1994

The coupling Grey and White is back again as well as the woolen processing in knitwear and in suit and blazer. This photo has been taken by Mauro Balletti 20 years ago. Total Look by Gianfranco Ferrè.

HARPER’S BAZAAR UOMO 1993

A typical 90’s styling, featuring some of the most mentioned brand of those years as John Rocha, Cult, Fabrizio del Carlo and Paul Smith, of course: his black leather jeans has been a must-have. The awesome Larry Scott (still long hair look), in the photo by Judson Baker.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE TENDENZA SENZA IRONIA UGUALE FARSA

In the past 2 years fashion made great progess. This is, in part, because of the success obtained by talented new designers (which are helping the best established designers pushing the boundaries of creative inspiration) and is in part because now is clear that menswear doesn’t have a subordinate role in fashion and that it’s not just a complement. Since 2010 the standardization of fashion has been disappearing and new trends have been bringing up our desire to dress to impress, others and ouselves, which is a pleasure based on pure self-expression and individuality. However there are always ecceptions, like certain annoying fashion excesses. If before it was almost a “shame” admitting to be a fashion follower , nowadays during fashion week journalists, fashion bloggers and so on have been fighting eachother in a battle of ridiculous looks in the hope of being fotographed by Scott Shuman or, at least by any of his imitators. Such parade, if played without any irony or taste, could call into question the value of the brand’s fashion creations themselves. All of this, which at first seemed funny, today feels like a farce taking credit off the system and degrading the fashion industry. Picture by Davide Cernuschi from Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1996. Total look Moschino.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE COME ERAVAMO RIGIDI NEGLI ANNI NOVANTA

The only true innovation which marked a big change in menswear during the 90’s has been the introduction of technological treatments on fabrics. With the wisdom of hindsight we now know that minimalism has been a reaction to the opulence of the prior decade more than a proper trend and that it has been lacking in new ideas. The Special finishes applied to improve the fabrics and make them waterproof, windproof, thermal and antitranspirant improved functionality but made the clothes look stiff. Whoever says that in order to be fashionable one must suffer a little is probably right but there are limits. Unfortunately, the technological invasion degenerated into a quite common and not very elegant casual wear which has left behind the typical exibitionism of the paninaro movement yet also a style which was determined by the beauty of particular materials and by a confident lifestyle and personality which later on have been classified as part of the past. However, it has been also a style which achieved outstanding excellence in pieces like the waxed cotton trench in the picture, realized with a keen eye for details and wearability in order to preserve the outerwear smoothness and avoid the resemblance to a shapeless armour. Nowadays the problem has been solved, thanks to the experience which taught us how to combine that certain comfort and class. Gabriel Aubry wears Allegri, picture by Rennio for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1997.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE LE SFILATE CONSIGLIANO NUOVI GIOCHI DI VOLUMI

Tight-fitting skimpy clothes are out of date. Designers have left no place for hesitation and we have been somehow forced to re-examine our wardrobe and to adopt the new fashion sense which has radically changed during the past two seasons of menswear. To be aware of those changes, one should not just copy whatever he sees at the latest fashion shows or in the top boutiques window displays but instead take careful consideration of how shapes and colors have changed. Colors in particular which are not very popular among italian men, are strongly recommended for those who wish to be in step with fashion. Having said that, I need to add something else: we should always buy fashion according to individual our personality and style. So, if for example you are -just like me- in love with those coat lenghts and shapes from the past, try to be less radical and mix the old with the new -like I do-.