Deep Red. Its title should have been The saber-toothed tiger. We don’t know if Dario Argento changed his mind in the last second or if he declared a false title to divert the expectations of press and audience. Regardless, it came out with the title Deep Red. It was march 7th 1975. So, the most successful movie by Dario Argento is 40 years old but it looks more recent. The director used advanced shooting techniques, from the Snorkel microcamera to the Dolly Champman camera for tracking shots. Obviously, it has nothing to do with the modern special effects. But the great thing about Deep red is that, although it was shot with means now obsolete, it is frightful just like the actual The Ring saga. The final flashback, that reveals that the murderer’s identity was right before our eyes since the first murder (matter of seconds, but we can see the criminal’s face), and the soundtrack by the Goblins are a milestone of the italian filmmaking. Above, Dario Argento with David Hemmings, the protagonist of Deep Red. 

Baggy and loose shapes are back in fashion. … Continua a leggere →

80s’ class. In spite of the recession, in the last few years new magazines of image, art, design and fashion have been created. Lots of them are autofinanced, others are supported by small businessmen. It means that the generation of the late 80s/90s feels like expressing itself, and aims at the paper magazines: this is, actually, the most surprising feature. They have studied to be art directors, journalists, fashion editors and they do just fine even out of the publishing giants. For the new fashion-designers, life is even harder: making (and supplying) a collection has very high costs. But, in the world of italian designers, the emerging brands are creations of men who are between 35 and 40 years old. Today I present the cover of the first issue of the very refined magazine c.a.p.74024. And four looks of menswear successful brands.

GIORGIO ARMANI

I contenuti fashion sono più forti in questa collezione, a differenza di quella Emporio, che – normalmente – è la linea Armani più moda. Bellissime le borse e i blazer “destrutturati”.

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS

Gli accessori da giacca, intelligentemente pensati per sostituire le borse, ovvero da indossare sul capo spalla come armature in pelle multitasking, sono davvero di grande effetto. Il fit dei blazer è asciutto quel tanto che basta per definire spalle e busto ma senza esagerazioni. Belli anche gli zaini.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Lusso ostentato. Ma ammorbidito da uno styling pulito, che punta per lo più sul nero. Nero come il rock, nero come il punk. Super grooming, acconciature top, che ricordano quelle di una copertina di Meisel per un numero di L’Uomo Vogue degli anni ’90.

GUGLIELMO CAPONE

Grande stile, gran gusto e una bellissima ricerca di materiali; si spazia dal cachemire e le lane del knitwear – particolarmente caro a Capone – fino al raso doppiato usato per austeri trench blu notte di sapore militare.

CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI

Belli e di taglio classicheggiante gli abiti in lana a quadretti e mélange e molto bella la maglieria. Le zone più moda della collezione – invece –  sono realizzate in seta stampata: i check a contrasto rimandano alla Londra anni ’60 di “Blow-Up”. Per Pellizzari, un bel passo avanti.

Comfortable Classic Chic. Picture by Luigi Miano, Styling by Luca Roscini. Model James Smith. Menswear by Guglielmo Capone (coat), waistcoat and trousers by Fabio Inghirami.