Vintage Generation. Some people call it “Vintage Generation”, others brush off the most fashionable style at the moment defining it “gender”, ignoring the meaning of this word. In the second case, this is a label given with negative meaning: ignorance produces confusion. For the may issue of Style Magazine we met and photographed Thomas Cohen, “songwriter, dandy, bohemian from London”; a rising talent that look like he’s just left a cover of a Bowie’s or Jagger’s disc. But let’s talk about this trend that, instead of emphasizing muscles and wide shoulders, focus the feminine side of men (in both men and women, hetero or homosexual, coexist a feminine and a masculine parts). Michele (Gucci), Maier (Bottega Veneta), Venturini Fendi and Prada (Miuccia has been a forerunner), has created collections inspired by the 70s, bringing back to fashion a combinable/decomposable styling. A mosaic that reminds us the most refined looks of the stars of the day. Avoiding denim. Thomas Cohen, in a picture by Simon for Style Magazine Italia, wears Bottega Veneta.

Beautiful and damned. He’s the “Joe” mentioned by Lou Reed in Walk on the Wild Side. That recites: “Little Joe never once gave it away/ Everybody had to pay and pay/ A hustle here and a hustle there/ New York city is the place where/ They said hey babe, take a walk on the wild side”. We’re talking about Joe Dallesandro, american model and actor, beautiful and damned: around fifty movies to his name, from 1967 to 2002, that didn’t achieve success. But he’s popular. Made famous by Andy Warhol and Paul Morissey, that hired him for his cult-shorts (Flesh and Trash), between the end of the ’60 and the early ’70. And by that Je t’aime moi non plus, that celebrates its 40th anniversary, shot with Jane Birkin. Marked by a borderline way of life, between clubs and the street, today Dallesandro is 67 years old, he has two sons and has been married three times. He’s still beautiful. And his style is still iconic. Joe Dallesandro in the poster of the movie Trash by Paul Morissey (1970).

The pinstriped doublebreasted. The peaked lapels. The silk shirt and the scarf knotted around the neck. The first steps of masculine/feminine by Tom Ford for Gucci in the early Nineties. Top Model Larry Scott, Picture by Davide Cernuschi, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.