Uno scatto classico di Toni Thorimbert: scattante, realistico, grintoso. Le sembianze del modello sono in contrasto con il taglio impeccabile dell’abito (Gucci).

A shot by Toni Thorimbert: snappy, realistic, gritty. The look of the model is in contrast with the tailoring of the suit (Gucci).

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS

 Il brand riparte da questa collezione: è perfettamente in armonia tra abbigliamento sportivo e fashion.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Con questa collezione, Armani si rivolge ad un uomo che segue le tendenze della moda.

 TOD’S

Lusso ostentato e distintivo

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La stagione in corso, che ha sfilato in passerella a gennaio, è il preludio dell’anno zero: dal prossimo vedremo – attraverso le collezioni primavera/estate che i magazine cominciano a pubblicare nei primi numeri del 2013 – che la moda uomo ha davvero voltato pagina. I primi dieci anni del 2000 sono stati di collaudo: da oggi si può parlare di coerenza stilistica, sebbene ogni maison abbia presentato e prodotto vestiti così diversi da azzerare completamente il vecchio concetto di macro tendenza. Tuttavia, in questo mix di proposte disparate e apparentemente lontane tra di loro, c’è uno slancio comune verso il futuro come non si vedeva  da più di vent’anni. Lo styling di queste foto di backstage, scattate durante un servizio fotografico in uscita a dicembre con abiti e accessori in vendita adesso, dimostra e anticipa un estro che appartiene ad una nuova era, fondata – speriamo – sul liberalismo e sulla bellezza.

This current season, (last january’s fashion shows) is a prelude to the year zero: by the next one we’ll notice -through the next S/S collections and by what magazines will publish by the very first issues of 2013- that menswear has really turned the page.The first ten years of 2000s have been a test. We can finally talk about stylistic coherence, although every maison has been introducing and producing pieces so very different from one another that the old concept of macro-trend has been reset. However, within the mix of suggestions which seem to be apparently so different and far from each other, there is such a strong push for the future as we haven’t seen one in more than 20 years.This backstage pictures has been taken during a fashion shoot that is going to be published in december, with accessories and clothes that are for sale right now, the styling discloses and reveals an inspiration which belongs to a new era, established -let’s hope so- on liberalism and beauty.

Total look Prada

Prima sfilata di Tom Ford per Gucci, presentata a Firenze. Il designer si impose con una collezione controcorrente. In tempo di minimalismo e total black propose colori violenti, anche negli accessori, riprendendo materiali come il mohair, più vicini all’abbigliamento femminile. Nella foto il top model svedese Marcus Schenkenberg sulla cover di Harper’s Bazaar Uomo del luglio 1995, fotografato da Judson Baker.

First fashion show of the collection of Gucci designed by Tom Ford, presented in Florence. The designer came out with an upstream collection. In time of minimalism and total black, he suggested violent colors, even for the accessories, recovering materials such as mohair, closer to womenswear. In the photo the Swedish supermodel Marcus Schenkenberg on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar Men of July 1995, photographed by Judson Baker.

“Who is ever going to wear that?”. Now more than ever the most popular comment between non-fashion insiders, because today we see a lot of people wearing “that”. Some excesses aren’t strictly catwolk-related anymore, why? Because the system is deeply changed: today a good half of the brands, is gaining profit from the self-portraits of tons of fashion addicts with their favorite designer’s pieces on and sharing them on the social networks. That’s it, through this media the picture can reach millions of people in half a second.It doesn’t even matter if the sobject actually do know anything about fashion or not, the value of the picture resides in two main features: beauty (real or assumed), and contest: the most popular shots are being taken by others, because that is a plus. If , on top of that, the picture is being taken at the front row of a fashion show, party or similars it can get a huge amount of views. It’s useless to wander if all of this makes any sense, because this is how things work now. It’s just better to get used to it and try not to be too queasy: If certain attitudes and laughable poses help to boost sales, it’s all good. Waiting for better days.