Peaked lapels and silk twill gave a unique magic to this white single-breasted jacket by Gucci: nowadays it’s still fashionable. The satin scarf by Jean Paul Gaultier Homme added charme to the dandy appearance we wanted to recreate. Picture by Cristina Meriggi.
EMPORIO ARMANI
In linea con la tendenza generale: molta pelle e forme squadrate. Forte ritorno alle fibre techno. Belle le camicie colorate da indossare anche per la sera.
GUCCI
La parte formale sposa una direzione marcatamente fashion. Bellissima la maglieria lavorata in rilievo e con motivi jacquard, mentre i rimandi al mondo dello sportswear sono decisamente lussuosi.
PORTS 1961
Più concretezza, meno poesia. Di fatto una sfilata commerciale: nell’ accezione migliore del termine, dato che riesce a essere ugualmente raffinata.
ETRO
Fuori dal coro, comme d’habitude. Ma sopratutto c é un nuovo elemento che connota la collezione: una forte fisicità, che la rende anche sensuale. L’ispirazione “messicana” convince, e crea un impatto emotivo molto forte.
CANALI
La palette di colori, le giacche 3/4 e la larghezza delle gessature colorate spezzate con il fondo immacolato, rimandano inevitabilmente agli anni ’80.
FENDI
Gli scambi di cromie intonati ai colori delle spezie e i tessuti, freschi e preziosi, danno vita ad una collezione dinamica e accattivante.
UMIT BENAN
E’ talmente raffinato e sottilmente elegante che, probabilmente, la sua moda – tutt’altro che invendibile, ma molto intellettuale – è poco compresa. Gli auguro con tutto il cuore di continuare e di mettere a segno una serie di successi: perchè è bravissimo.
DIRK BIKKEMBERGS
La pelle vince su tutto: per le applicazioni geometriche sul jersey o quando è lavorata come il pizzo. Il mood è decisamente ispirato allo sportswear degli anni ’90.
BRIONI
Superbe le lavorazioni della pelle scamosciata che creano un intreccio materico maschile e sofisticato. La collezione si basa sulle fredde nuances del piombo e del ferro, giocate su disegni tradizionali come il Galles e i micro-checks, e realizzati su lane preziosissime al tatto e ariose nella consistenza.
Some fashion codes should be applied also to men’s bags which have become status symbols just like clothing but even though they are practical accessories, they don’t suit everyone. The ritual gestural expressiveness related to bags (that were initially created only for women) has always been laughed at by mischievous people. It would be enough to follow a few simple rules in order to avoid looking ridiculous. First of all it would be good to abstain from carrying clutches and handbags: they surely are trendy but can also be misleading and other than that I can assure you it’s a passing trend, not worth the cost. If a briefcase it’s too much “Wall Street” and makes you feel obsolete, perhaps you would prefer a distressed leather shoulder bag or a Saffiano briefcase, very handy for carrying your laptop and IPad. If you need something bigger and softer there are some beautiful duffel bags on the market just as capacious as weekend bags. I recommend choosing the right leather, especially if the outfit is fashionable like the one in the picture, it would be good to soften the ensemble with the use of fine yet manly and rough materials like natural croc or suede. Picture by Andrea Gandini for Io Donna, suit and glasses by Gucci, sweater by Hermes, shirt by Burberry bag by Tod’s.
A well displayed chronograph worn on top of a tailored shirt cuff. Then we have two precious rings- the first one it’s a remarkable ring (by Gucci), the second one it’s a wedding ring (by Chopard) classic regimental suspenders (by Brooks Brothers), tieclip (by Paul Smith) and of course the tie, regimental as well. All peculiarities that distinguish men which are included in the history of style, “the Lawyer” and John Kennedy, and objects that many of us are keeping in the drawer and not using anymore. The new traditional menswear it’s luxurious and strong, inspiring men to consider a style that is coming back: a determined contemporary man, with a maniacal obsession with grooming, and a strong inclination for success. An ambitious kind of man, sometimes arrogant, which requires a polished look indeed. Such display of confidence can appear irritating but it doesn’t have to be condemned tout court: when it’s not exhibitionism it’s just a form of respect, for ourselves and others.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
