Gainsbourg Icon. Serge Gainsbourg, the bad boy of french pop, was said to be arrogant and violent and that his lifestyle dissolute; the label of “beautiful and damned” doesn’t fit him that much, because he was certainly not “beautiful”. But “damned”, probably, yes. Anyway the unkempt appearance it’s still somehow quite attractive related to the idea of a kind of devious and eccentric men, defined as artists and uncommon person, so that he’s become a real icon, and his style it’s being re-proposed to represent a certain nonchalant fashion. Tom Ford In 2002, during his time as creative director for Gucci, designed a collection feauturing extremely comfortable silhouettes made from soft and fluid fabrics like jersey and wool cloth. Although the reviews were enthusiastic, the collection didn’t have the expected results. The same thing happened, more recently, for Zegna collections by Stefano Pilati. I have already written about how oversize fashion still can’t find its way to the general public’s heart, for now. I personally like it, but I recognize its limits.

His Vanity. Until the 60s, the only jewels allowed for men were cufflinks and the wedding ring. At most the tie clip, some used to wear the gold chain received for the first Holy Communion. Jewels became a trend for men in the 70s: young people drew inspiration from the rockstars, so the first silver bracelets started to peek out. Later there were the yellow gold bracelets, in form of rectangular plates matched with leather strings. From the years of minimalism on, the inspiration was punk and its symbologies. And from Slimane for Dior Homme and Margiela, to the funny creations by Paul Smith, and the jewelry collection by Dolce&Gabbana, many designers have indulged the most hidden side of men’s vanity.