Armani’s thinking is inspired by Eighties. The jacket in this week’s picture represents one of the most innovative suggestions in male clothing for next fall/winter; it’s not just the mix between fabric and synthetic material to make it special and particularly futuristic, nor the diagonal zipper and leather borders. The singularity of this piece of cloth, unique in his kind, is the “pied-de-coq” manufacturing, a variation of the well-known pied-de-poule more common in female fashion. The shape recalls mildly Eighties proportions: big shoulders that emphasize the waisted line, and the lenght that stops few cm under the waist; in a few words, Armani seems to have drawn from his archives and restyled in modern key one of his jackets from 1984/85, adding a print that makes it more fashionable. It’s a gorgeous garment, although quite durable due to his fashion appeal, that can be worn only by very thin and tall men: the match with too tapered trousers can produce a disharmonic look as well as, instead, a bold one; in doubt, it would be better to choose straight but a bit leg-wide trousers. In this last case, you’ll be in full “Armani Mood”. Jacket made of wool and neoprene by Giorgio Armani, F/W 13/14.

DSQUARED2

Una giungla di tipologie di uomini, accomunati dal senso dell’ironia e da un auto compiacimento sensuale ma fresco. Non mancano blazer e pantaloni di taglio classico ma la mise en scène  è talmente scanzonata che prevale il ricordo di una collezione sportiva e giovanilistica.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Armani preferisce dare una svolta fashion anche nella main line . Hanno sfilato bellissimi pullover a maglia grossa e perfino leggere t-shirt  con stampe “fluttuanti” appena accennate. Gli abiti e le gli spezzati impeccabili li troveremo senz’altro nelle boutique, ma in passerella c’è più spazio per capispalla  materici e colorati.

ERMANNO SCERVINO

La collezione sconfina nel casual-moda. Le sciarpe in garza colorate e i dettagli in strass sulle cinture, e sui polsi e i colletti delle camicie in cotone effetto denim, alleggeriscono il coté tradizionale del brand.

ZZEGNA

E’ giocata sulle  sovrapposizioni tra diverse lunghezze e su zone classiche o – altrimenti – casual/chic. Il segno distintivo del brand – fortemente fashion – si disperde in una collezione più facile e vendibile.

FRANKIE MORELLO

Divertente, spontanea, leggera, giovane. Frankie Morello non ha niente da invidiare ai suoi competitor.

 The white suit is a must have for the male summer wardrobe, but it’s also an iconic garment, that brings us back to past. In particular, the total white has been loved by many celebrities, in that period from the end of the Fifties to the mid Sixties. Visconti, De Sica, Mastroianni, Pasolini, Gassman: black and white movies from that era, that showed a growing Italy in a thorny historic period, during which the working class also dressed with elegance and decency, depicted men full of fascination, with a unique and unattainable style. Both actors and film-makers were “chic”: from that point of view, everything was more special. Today there’s a lack of “good manners”, certainly not of clothes. It needs to retrieve a certain way of behave, it’s not true that “today there are not the clothes of the past”, instead there are not the manners of the past: a good suit is not enough, without politeness and charme. This year there are thousands of white suits, in a large variety of models and fabric: choose yours but, then, wear it with the proper attitude. Actor Fabio Troiano in a total look by Giorgio Armani. Picture by Marco La Conte for Max.gazzetta.it.

That’s man fashion history: Giorgio Armani has been forwarder of large shape, velvet and natural tones in suit. Ph. by Diego D’Alessandro.