Animal activist, #keepcalm. You don’t have to think that a garment made of croc print leather is a B choice. They don’t give the idea of “I wish but I can’t”. First of all they aren’t cheap garments at all, because the procedures involve a high degree of manual dexterity, several steps and very long processing time; therefore, we’re talking about valued objects however. Then, the luxury effect is guaranteed. Last but not least…animal activists (me included) can keep calm. Man with fur or dressed in reptile leather is not new: almost every celebrity has worn them since the 70s, from Stallone to Elton John, Gunter Sachs, Helmut Berger, Serge Gainsbourg. Sure, the phisique du role or the extravaganza of the man in question play an essential role in the success of an exaggerated look. If, vice versa, you are not a rockstar nor anyone similar, set a balance between luxury and minimal and you will be on the right way. Marlon Brando in a scene of the movie “The Fugitive Kind” (1959).

The 1900s school. Art in fashion, again? Yes. And the 1900s is the focus. Especially the Bauhaus, founded in 1919 in Weimar by the architect Walter Gropius, that influenced the trends of innovation in design and architecture linked to Functionalism and Rationalism; the art of Rodchenko, its colours and its geometric motifs; and, then, the cuts of Lucio Fontana. Little by little, like in an expedition, we come to more recent times, the Italian 1900s of Ettore Sottsass, the Memphis Group operational in Milan between 1981 and 1987. At the end, if fashion could be considered as a form of art, there’s also who quotes it: the pop/landscape by Castelbajac. These clothes are a little example of how much creativity and how many ideas arise from designers’ inspiration in such a complicated era for economy and fashion business. Take a look around and you will discover many examples of “art” also in the fashion world. The architect Walter Gropius (in the middle) with his team.

Double bind. Timeless flagship of menswear, the double-breasted jacket is a must-have. Everyone has to have at least one for each season Its birth goes back to the XVII century, when it was part of the uniform of the Hussar army: this doesn’t surprise…when we wear a double-breasted suit we’re forced to take on a very erect, martial, posture. The time of its greatest popularity was between the 30s and the late 40s. Then it came back in fashion in the 80s, but longer and with very wide shoulders. Today the shape is more fitted (but the last trend wants it a little more loose than a couple of seasons ago) and shorter. Fashionistas and snobs wear it without tie, with the shirt unbuttoned and a printed silk scarf.

GIORGIO ARMANI

L’eccellenza del Maestro emerge più che mai quando Giorgio Armani cita sé stesso, e questa collezione É decisamente quell’ “Armani Style”  che vogliamo da lui. Applausi.

DSQUARED2

Una bella collezione, fresca, giovanile e positivamente commerciale. L’ispirazione principale? L’arte pop in voga tra la fine degli anni ’60 e i primi ’70.

ERMANNO SCERVINO

L’orientamento giusto è lo sport di lusso anche per Ermanno Scervino.

FRANKIE MORELLO

I capispalla sono ariosi e colorati, ma c’è anche un leggerissimo spolverino “carta carbone”. La collezione è molto piacevole e ben fatta e lo styling è azzeccato in pieno.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Roberto fa tabula rasa; azzera e riparte dalla sua prima sfilata uomo (2000). In questa collezione infatti, riporta – come allora – tutto il suo immaginario maschile: un nomade-hippie, avventuroso e amante del lusso.

D-GNAK

Il designer coreano mantiene i codici, di chiara matrice orientale, della sua moda: rigore ed essenzialità nelle linee, forme che avvolgono il corpo, colori puri. Il tutto, per la ss15, orientato ad uno sportswear alto.

TOM REBL

L’ispirazione di Tom Rebl per la prossima estate è l’India, che contamina e reinterpreta in un gioco di opposti i capi iconici dello stilista: il chiodo, il trench e la vestaglia.

JULIAN ZIGERLI

Capi sportivi e tessuti tecnici sono alla base della collezione di Zigerli, che però li maschera ironicamente con colori e dettagli ironici e vagamente kitsch.