An actor to “interpret” the seasonal trends: so Filippo Timi wore the most special clothes of s/s 2014. Included a Trussardi python leather suit, with exceptional ease. Ph. Stefan Giftthaler, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.
Filippo Timi photographed by Andrea Gandini.
Tribute to leather of the young Gaia. The first look on the catwalk indicates the mood of the fashion show, is a kind of introduction that gives suddenly an idea of the entire collection. It true, but it doesn’t mean that all outfits will look the same, because, in sequence, the mood is developed with different shapes and colours; but the first outfit remains – in the designer’s mind- the most important. Gaia Trussardi doesn’t disappoint this tradition, and infact for her debut she choose a total look that represents the leitmotif of her first s/s: leather and white. A hard inheritance, the Trussardi’s one: a maison that had in the past some problems to identify itself in a specific style, changing its personality too many times. And Gaia, properly, starts her path with a tribute to the strong point of Trussardi: leather, indeed. “To maintain a stylistic coherence, carrying on and merge in a single aesthetic the values that made the brand’s history is essential”. Some details in blue, a very particular suit (blazer and bermuda shorts) made of python leather, but in the main part milk-white or off-white, that gradually becomes darker till the shades of beige; “Actually” talks on Gaia, “these are the colours that represent an idea of relaxed elegance and are part of the brand DNA”. “Beige, white… the no-colours typical of the desertic stretches of American West; these shades matched with red and blue of the breath-taking sunsets of those places, give birth to a chromatic palette that evokes the landscapes that ispired the collection”. First outfit of the Trussardi 2014 s/s collection; below Filippo Timi with the python suit, picture by S. Giffthaler.
AN ARMOUR NAMED TRENCH
The proper name is trench coat, a water-resistant piece of clothing that can replace your coat. The first one was realized by Burberry in 1901, commissioned by the English War’s Ministry. Since then, it seems like the trench became very popular among people involved in the justice system (or at least in the collective immagination), from the movie “Casablanca” till Antonio Di Pietro, unconvincing model for an italian GQ editorial of some time ago. The list can go on and on, from Bogart to the Honorable, Colombo and Sheridan, Alain Delon in “Tony Arzenda”, Michael Cane in “Dressed to Kill”, Donald Sutherland in “The eye of the needle”.The trench do have a warlike appearance: considerable lapel, military insignias, the waist belt, the double breasted buttoning and the over the knee lenght, always. All of this features together can give you a feeling of self-protection and an assertive allure. Only one flaw: it keeps you too warm in the spring and not worm enought in the winter. But here’s a trick: all you need is a removable padded or woolen internal lining, that you can put on and off according to the weather. On top, actor Filippo Timi is wearing a trench coat shot by Stefano Babic. Instagram picture from Max magazine (2008).
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
