DIRK BIKKEMBERGS
Il brand riparte da questa collezione: è perfettamente in armonia tra abbigliamento sportivo e fashion.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Con questa collezione, Armani si rivolge ad un uomo che segue le tendenze della moda.
TOD’S
Lusso ostentato e distintivo
Women who dress up men, or rather, when the designer is a woman. They would like to see us sensitive but not soppy. Elegant but not affected and masculine without showing any sign of machismo. Donatella Versace is an exception, she has been preserving the sensuality of his brother’s collections and she has been respecting not only the way he has imprinted on them but also the public’s expectations. Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons)and Miuccia Prada instead, would like to see man changing their wardrobes every season: they are eclectic, intellectuals, futurists, they are also willing to change their idea of fashion however maintaining their personal style. To make ourselves understood, a piece of Prada is highly recognizable, even if colors and shapes keep changing through the years. Silvia Venturini Fendi really prefers an unconventional man, who’s bold enough to wear fur and who’s not afraid of considering frivolous undertones when he chooses his fabrics. Also Veronique Nichanian, creative director of Hermès’ menswear line since 1998, opts for traditional style coupled with dandy influences: silken shirts, silken scarves with peculiar patterns and shades like the sienna, mustard yellow and bluette. Brilliant references and innuendos which through the years built a kind of menswear designed by women that is most assuredly timeless. Picture by Marcus Gaab from M 2007. The model is wearing a Fendi Blazer and an Hermès shirt.
YEARS OF LEAD
The 70s aesthetic has always been dear to me, and is not even just because of anagraphic reasons. I like it because it has been an expression of freedom. That generation had a strong desire to break up with the past and a need to think outside the boxes that was showing through their look. In the meantime the typical italian man, stereotyped as being manly with pomade in his hair, was disappointed. However, it has been a charming style revolution and we still do appreciate it, since cyclically it comes back into fashion. The first brand to ebrace that 70s look has been Louis Vuitton, which in 2000 chose a face for its new campign that could have been spotted out in a student demonstration. The model was Bill Gentle, who’s now a photographer living in the USA. Bill is also the sobject of this week’s picture, from an old 2002 “Uomo” editorial. The styling was all about the years of lead: when handmaded parkas and pullovers were considered “left wing” outfits. Picture taken with Instagram, original shot by Francesca Lotti for “L’Uomo” 2002. Eskimo coat by Fendi and pullover by Yohij Yamamoto.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Blu, bianco e tinte neutre. Forme morbide e linee cedevoli.
ETRO
Diverse lunghezze movimentano la silhouette. Sete e cotoni cangianti.
UMIT BENAN
8 letti, 8 coppie. Gli uomini si alzano, si vestono e sfilano.
BRIONI
Esercizi di tempo libero. Maglieria di seta, camicie di suede e sera color pastello tra partite a pétanque e pic nic al parco.
GUCCI
Una collezione che convive in totale armonia tra tendenza e sobrietà. Puntando verso un’allure d’altri tempi.
ICEBERG
Concentrata sul punto di forza d’origine del brand: la maglieria.
MSGM
Young, pop, fresca; terapeutica e creativa.
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
Collezione sofisticata e preziosa.
MOSCHINO
Fortemente Moschino: cangiante e pop. Ben fatti anche gli abiti.
TOM FORD
Lusso totale, nel formale come nello sportswear e sopratutto negli accessori.
ZZEGNA
Fuori dal coro per l’assenza di colori forti. Simmetrica, razionale e chic.
PAUL SMITH
Impeccabile e divertente al tempo stesso: un’impresa difficile in questo caso perfettamente azzeccata.
FENDI
Torna a sorprendere l’uomo di Fendi, con stampe e tanta pelle.
MISSONI
Un guardaroba non convenzionale ed informale per un moderno viaggiatore
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
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