Animal activist, #keepcalm. You don’t have to think that a garment made of croc print leather is a B choice. They don’t give the idea of “I wish but I can’t”. First of all they aren’t cheap garments at all, because the procedures involve a high degree of manual dexterity, several steps and very long processing time; therefore, we’re talking about valued objects however. Then, the luxury effect is guaranteed. Last but not least…animal activists (me included) can keep calm. Man with fur or dressed in reptile leather is not new: almost every celebrity has worn them since the 70s, from Stallone to Elton John, Gunter Sachs, Helmut Berger, Serge Gainsbourg. Sure, the phisique du role or the extravaganza of the man in question play an essential role in the success of an exaggerated look. If, vice versa, you are not a rockstar nor anyone similar, set a balance between luxury and minimal and you will be on the right way. Marlon Brando in a scene of the movie “The Fugitive Kind” (1959).

The 1900s school. Art in fashion, again? Yes. And the 1900s is the focus. Especially the Bauhaus, founded in 1919 in Weimar by the architect Walter Gropius, that influenced the trends of innovation in design and architecture linked to Functionalism and Rationalism; the art of Rodchenko, its colours and its geometric motifs; and, then, the cuts of Lucio Fontana. Little by little, like in an expedition, we come to more recent times, the Italian 1900s of Ettore Sottsass, the Memphis Group operational in Milan between 1981 and 1987. At the end, if fashion could be considered as a form of art, there’s also who quotes it: the pop/landscape by Castelbajac. These clothes are a little example of how much creativity and how many ideas arise from designers’ inspiration in such a complicated era for economy and fashion business. Take a look around and you will discover many examples of “art” also in the fashion world. The architect Walter Gropius (in the middle) with his team.

The sporty jacket, a fundamental choice. … Continua a leggere →

Camicie Fendi, f/w 2014/15

Le stampe su cotone rimandano agli “errori” legati alla tecnologia: come lo schermo televisivo quando diventa nebuloso e la trama pixelata.

A cura di Angelica Pianarosa

Foto Michele Gastl

The logo, this well-known. Tom Ford even “drew” the G of Gucci on the most intimate part of the model. The sharp journalist Natalia Aspesi didn’t come forward with positive or negative comments, but she declared, lapidary: “Tom Ford has found the G-spot”. But that was an adv. What happens if the mere mortal, not a mannequin or a celebrity, completely primps with logos, randomly and everywhere? “Logoed” garments, especially for men, are fairly dangerous: it’s easy to drift into vulgarity, and to show a lack of personality. A completely different matter when the logo is shown in a moderate way and when it appears only once in the outfit, for example on the belt buckle, or on the briefcase, maybe on a leather or metal bracelet. To sum up, style is recognisable also in sobriety and good taste used to show the “object of desire”. In this case, the logo is welcome. The initials of Louis Vuitton carved in stone (project of Barthélémy & Griño).