We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

The art of matching. Selecting the proper accessories that matches your look seems easy, but even a little detail can ruin everything. To reduce the risks, respect the rule that want every accessory, from hat to socks, to be in pendant with the outfit; and no mistakes allowed even concerning the fabrics: there are also rules about matching different materials in the proper way. For example: don’t match cashmere with shearling, yes to shearling with tweed. Rather is better to opt for a complete change of fabric: nylon hat with camelhair coat. But personality is required, as well as for wearing red socks with a blue suit or sneakers with jeans: this is so obvious that the sneakers have to be really, really special. But if you have classic tastes, stay classic: blue with blue and denim only with desert boots.

Scatto di Federico Miletto per The Men Issue, Styling di Giovanni de Ruvo.

Abito Ermenegildo Zegna Couture

a sin., Oliver Cheshire in uno scatto di street style; a ds., Sfilata Tim Coppens f/w 2017

Grazie Duca!

Si può dire che Edoardo VII, per primo, ed Edoardo VIII, suo nipote dopo di lui, furono dei veri “Arbiter Elegantiae”, dal latino giudice di raffinatezza, del loro tempo.

Edoardo VIII, innovativo nel modo di vestire e nello sperimentare accostamenti, al tempo eccentrici, e comparati ad oggi di sicuro avanguardisti, fece del Principe di Galles (tessuto dal caratteristico pattern quadrettato inventato dal nonno) una vera scoperta, ed una pietra miliare per la moda maschile attuale.

Questo tessuto molto versatile, nella sua versione classica, può essere utilizzato per l’abito due pezzi, oppure in tre pezzi, con gilet; può essere indossato spezzato, con giacca su un pantalone cargo per un effetto casual, o ancora può avere vestibilità stretta o loose, con spalline o senza; può essere portato foderato su camicia sartoriale, o sfoderato, più fresco, su di una T-Shirt, e addirittura, come possiamo vedere in uno di questi tre scatti, con un look street, oggi super cool, abbinato ad una tuta in acetato, come da sfilata Tim Coppens fall/winter 17/18.

Nelle altre due situazioni, vediamo da una parte Oliver Cheshire, modello ed influencer inglese, immortalato per la strada in un completo monopetto fitted ma elegantissimo, dall’altra invece uno scatto realizzato appositamente per The Men Issue da Federico Miletto, con protagonista un abito doppiopetto in fresco di lana di Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, della collezione fall/winter 17/18: un Principe di Galles, in perfetto stile British, impeccabile, ma anche Metrosexual. Styling e testo di Giovanni de Ruvo

Thanks to the duke! We can say that Edward VII, and then … Continua a leggere →

The bridge dedicated to PPP. Ariola is a district of Gerocarne, in the province of Vibo Valentia, in Calabria, with 500 inhabitants in 1960. That year, a certain writer and director that made history arrived thereabouts: Pier Paolo Pasolini. He started the research for the location of “The Gospel according to St. Matthew”, 4 years before the first action. At that time, Ariola could be reached only with a mule track: Pasolini promised to contribute to the building of a bridge, in order to make the life of the inhabitants easier (today they’re around two hundred). The bridge was built and the director kept in touch with a family living there through letters: that, unfortunately, were lost during the emigrations in the following years. In that small town there are four workshops of ceramists that, probably, wouldn’t have existed without that bridge. 57 years later- maybe a little too late- in march, the bridge was dedicated to Pier Paolo Pasolini.