A well displayed chronograph worn on top of a tailored shirt cuff. Then we have two precious rings- the first one it’s a remarkable ring (by Gucci), the second one it’s a wedding ring (by Chopard) classic regimental suspenders (by Brooks Brothers), tieclip (by Paul Smith) and of course the tie, regimental as well. All peculiarities that distinguish men which are included in the history of style, “the Lawyer” and John Kennedy, and objects that many of us are keeping in the drawer and not using anymore. The new traditional menswear it’s luxurious and strong, inspiring men to consider a style that is coming back: a determined contemporary man, with a  maniacal obsession with grooming, and a strong inclination for success. An ambitious kind of man, sometimes arrogant, which requires a polished look indeed. Such display of confidence can appear irritating but it doesn’t have to be condemned tout court: when it’s not exhibitionism  it’s just a form of  respect, for ourselves and  others.

In the past 2 years fashion made great progess. This is, in part, because of the success obtained by talented new designers (which are helping the best established designers pushing the boundaries of creative inspiration) and is in part because now is clear that menswear doesn’t have a subordinate role in fashion and that it’s not just a complement. Since 2010 the standardization of fashion has been disappearing and new trends have been bringing up our desire to dress to impress, others and ouselves, which is a pleasure based on pure self-expression and individuality. However there are always ecceptions, like certain annoying fashion excesses. If before it was almost a “shame” admitting to be a fashion follower , nowadays during fashion week journalists, fashion bloggers and so on have been fighting eachother in a battle of ridiculous looks in the hope of being fotographed by Scott Shuman or, at least by any of his imitators. Such parade, if played without any irony or taste, could call into question the value of the brand’s fashion creations themselves. All of this, which at first seemed funny, today feels like a farce taking credit off the system and degrading the fashion industry. Picture by Davide Cernuschi from Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1996. Total look Moschino.

Some colors are timeless and they never go out of fashion. I’m not talking about white, protagonist of this week’s photo. In fact white is not even a color, it also doesn’t have black’s (overrated?) reputation, because you know what they say “you can’t go wrong wearing black”. This picture is from an Harper’s Bazaar Uomo of 1994, it shows how the reverberation of light (already emphasized by a purposely bright background)has been softened by the use of two camel nuances for the sweater, one stronger than the other. In this case, shades can help mitigate the “total white” effect, an annoying 80s peculiarity which periodically comes back being chosen by designers with recognized intellectual creative skills. The color identified as camel (which is a shade of brown-beige) instead it’s simply timeless, is one of men’s favourite colors and is highly rated anytime brought back by fashion designers as over the last couple of years; Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Zegna and Valentino have built entire collections on its transversality.It’s a refined and reassuring fil-rouge that fits every skin tone, from the blond viking through the irish redhead to the mediterranean male. Photo by Mauro Balletti, Atesh is wearing Dries Van Noten and Dolce & Gabbana knitwear.

The art of “styling” is about being good at matching clothes and accessories, is about achieving results also through the combination of dissimilar fabrics in a perfectly harmonious way. Is the ability to combine clothing, body shape and proportions. It’s understanding the meaning of style after climbing the ladder for years. By mixing and matching pieces the “stylist” is able to express a certain beauty which is directly proportional to his skills. It’s a real job that involves a high level of professionalism indispensable for published fashion media. Stylists can help photographers building their careers, they can contribute to the success of magazines, editorial campaigns and fashion shows (or they can ruin them as well). It’s an important role that shouldn’t be underestimated. Some of them acquired great writing skills through the years and they now write remarkable articles not just for slick magazines but also for widely-read newspapers. When flipping through fashion editorial pages one should consider that behind each single shot there are passion, thoughts, good taste and quite a lot of work. Foto by Lee Strickland from Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1994. The model is wearing Emporio Armani.