While writing this column I have been thinking many times about the beauty of certain fabrics and patterns used in menswear. The most consolidated traditional references embody the history of costume, they are a precious heritage which has been guiding and influencing men’s aesthetic choices for over a century. Menswear: so very different from womenswear, it’s a more conventional world where changes occurs gradually as they remain strongly anchored in tradition. One of the latest “little revolutions” in menswear involves the use of classic and warm fabrics for sportswear: an option that has been blocking the invasion of nylon and other cold syntetic fabrics. The real innovation consists in the fact that the fabric’s design makes the whole outfit look a lot more elegant and classy. Patterns like Prince of Wales , pinstripe and tartan (kilts always have tartan patterns), pied-de-poule and pied-de-coq (a kind of little square with a “hook” similar to a spur) have been used also for casualwear. Quilted jackets and shiny down coats are over: let’s welcome the new sportswear, which makes it possible to beat the cold weather and feel comfortable even riding a scooter yet maintaining an exquisitely modern and refined look. Picture by Andrea Gandini, sport jacket by Fay(F/W 2013)

Some fashion codes should be applied also to men’s bags which have become status symbols just like clothing but even though they are practical accessories, they don’t suit everyone. The ritual gestural expressiveness related to bags (that were initially created only for women) has always been laughed at by mischievous people. It would be enough to follow a few simple rules in order to avoid looking ridiculous. First of all it would be good to abstain from carrying clutches and handbags: they surely are trendy but can also be misleading and other than that I can assure you it’s a passing trend, not worth the cost. If a briefcase it’s too much “Wall Street” and makes you feel obsolete, perhaps you would prefer a distressed leather shoulder bag or a Saffiano briefcase, very handy for carrying your laptop and IPad. If you need something bigger and softer there are some beautiful duffel bags on the market just as capacious as weekend bags. I recommend choosing the right leather, especially if the outfit is fashionable like the one in the picture, it would be good to soften the ensemble with the use of fine yet manly and rough materials like natural croc or suede. Picture by Andrea Gandini for Io Donna, suit and glasses by Gucci, sweater by Hermes, shirt by Burberry bag by Tod’s.

Naturalness, innate elegance and a slender body: here’s the secret to look good wearing menswear when it goes beyond tradition. In this week’s specific case we have a tunic/jacket/shirt made of a very light and shiny cotton. Let’s say it’s a very sought after piece, too wacky for many. It’s an extra for that certain time of the year: summertime, when you are tired of wearing blazers but still want to wear something on top of your shirt or polo. It can be worn against bare skin (only for the young ones) or with a t-shirt underneath, it’s cool and it also has a hood, in case of rain. It cloud also work with chinos and mocassins or english style lace-up shoes. It’s a large-fitting outerwear so for a matter of proportions it would match really well a pair of fluid trousers with front pleats: loose-fitting canvas or linen pants, to wear with high rubber sole sneakers. The shoes should be consistent when wearing wide fitting trousers..otherwise your feet can disappear. Picture: Bottega Veneta shot by Filippo Mutani for Max.

I must admit that I have a defect: it can take me forever to recognize talent in celebrities. Considering I am a journalist, that is a big deal. Fortunately I write about fashion so in that area I can usually tell when a designer is inventive, even just by looking at a few pieces. Anyway, show business and fashion go together so also celebrities must be considered. Sometimes I have been very good at guessing: for example, I just had to listen to one song by Adele to realize she is an amazing artist and I could tell right away Elio Germano is one of our best actors by watching him play a fairly relevant role in a movie. In the case of David Gandy instead I’m not quite sure about his role…a part from the modelling one obviously, (unlike the two artists I previously mentioned who also pose for glossy magazines). I have met him on set while shooting for Max and I have to say I was struck by his appearance (he’s perfect). However, despite his politeness, he seemed to be so focused on his beauty that he did not to show any other quality. He is probably being successful thanks to Domenico (Dolce) and Stefano (Gabbana) who made him an icon and even managed to make him look classy, creating a unique phenomenon. It’s now up to the english model, (who doesn’t look english at all by the way), to ride the wave of success and maybe take some acting classes, I could see him as the new James Bond, once Craig  will resign. Picture by Giovanni Gastel for Max, David Gandy wearing Dolce & Gabbana.

When a designer is being asked to redesign the image of a brand that made history, the biggest challenge is to create a collection that is going to reflect his personality while maintaining the brand identity.  Because of that heavy heritage the designer will find himself inevitably exposed to criticism and comparisons which are often purely based on rethoric. Designers like Slimane, who took the creative reins at Dior and Saint Laurent, respectively, have left completely behind the identity of the brand. Slimane’s predecessor Stefano Pilati instead even though sporadically, has been maintaining “the allure” so dear to the brand founder: we’ll see what happens in june, when he’s going to design for Ermenegildo Zegna. Nino Cerruti has left the brand Cerruti 1881 in 2001 and later on Aldo Maria Camillo became the new artistic director. He’s been designing the collection that is now available in stores, and he’s also been presenting the next fall/winter collection in Paris. “I am happy we have got Mr. Nino and the woolen mill involved because having the chance to create your own fabrics has always been Cerruti’s trademark” said Camillo which has been tipetoing his way into the project with discretion just like “Mr Nino”. His last collection feautures geometric and classy silhouettes, preserving the semplicity and elegance of the brand Cerruti 1881.