SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE QUELLA MODERNITA’ ISPIRATA A OSCAR WILDE
That modernity inspired … Continua a leggere →
That modernity inspired … Continua a leggere →
The rainbow on the catwalk. … Continua a leggere →
Armani and that style that makes men beautiful. … Continua a leggere →
This is the time of “You Wanna Be Italiano”. Forget the american dream, the dream is totally italian. This is the opinion of the eminent Michael Hainey, Deputy Editor of Gq Usa (below in a portrait by Ewan Sung for Style). “The majority of Italians still appreciates elegance. In America, for a long time, there has been a sort of “death” of clothing; today, a dressing culture is back, especially among young people. But the trend of “Casual friday”, which started around 15 years ago, has (wrongly) promoted the idea of a general carelessness in clothing”. So young americans are disposed to emulate italian style, leaving the “bad habit” of casual friday, appreciated by previous generations, behind them. Actually, and I’ve always affirmed it, sportswear sanctioned the end of elegance; when I see teenagers wearing a sweatshirt with the hood pulled down over the eyes they remind me of Elliot (actor Henry Thomas), E.T.’s friend: I imagine that the bicycle will suddenly start to fly. Tender, nice and funny. But not elegant. Hainey thinks that we are the best dressed in the world, he doesn’t talk about neither English nor French. “I like coming to Milano because here I met men that inspire me with their style: they have the proper self-confidence to mix classic with new, they know how to respect tradition revitalising it at the same time”. This is how americans see us: they watch us with a certain envy, they admire our aesthetic sense. But I don’t know if it would be enough to eliminate the syndrome of “You Wanna Be Americano”, but it’s a good starting point to forget some inferiority complexes that we’ve carried since 1945.
Discrete luxury for men. Two pictures, one of 2006 e one of today, in comparison. On the M cover you can see a coat from the last Dior Homme collection designed by Hedi Slimane, while the other shows a look from the Brioni’s ss 2014 collection, designed by Brendan Mullane. In both cases we find refinement and a very distinguishing and up-to-date thinking of luxury: a modern sign of splendor and greatness. What is, today, luxury: can it be the opulence of Versace, Fendi and Vuitton or a subtle but perceivable particularity that represents it in a more discrete way? Discrete, in this case doesn’t mean invisible; the contrasting silhouette drawn on Dior coat and the ir-regular motif on Brioni’s sweater are anything but “invisible”, but the richness of style is not made of golden studs or sumptuous coloured leather, but of very fine fabrics and perfect cuts. The goal has been achieved, the concept of modern luxury is legitimized through a style that involves personality and tact. Without devaluing the designers who prefer ostentation, loved and preferred by fashionistas all over the world and – honestly – by me as a stylist, it seems that the future of menswear is going to take the opposite direction. The M cover (2006) shot by Johan Sandberg; below a ss14 Brioni outfit.