Fashion shows have become performances, live “narratives”. Yesterday unvarnished fashion walked the runway; today, set-up, music, lights and even invitations immediately introduce in the collection’s mood. Years ago all designers modeled in the Fair’s old location: the same halls, white walls, chairs and catwalks. Dolce & Gabbana were among the first to change location. In 1995, still in the old one, they displayed damasked for men: the idea of buying and restoring the old cinema Metropol wasn’t in their projects yet. Today, thanks to the magnificence of a (ex) movie theatre changed, by necessity, into a hall inspired by Visconti, that mediterranean romanticism is celebrated with a much more affecting intensity. Opposite feeling at Prada, able to surprising intuitions: every season her space changes scenography, and every time is a surprise: nothing shines through, not even from the invitation. In 2011, when she changed her fashion’s direction suggesting bright colours, a catwalk made of steel tubes and lighted up by neon lights. Two examples of excellence, totally opposing and totally brilliant. Above, from left, an outfit by Dolce & Gabbana (from Bazaar Uomo, 1995; ph. Rennio) and one by Prada (from max, 2011; ph. Tesh).

One of the most extraordinary collection by Dolce & Gabbana date back to 1993. Knitwear’s patchwork marquetries were still influenced by eighties’ feeling, but were already projected towards the future. Picture by Tyen.

Le campagne pubblicitarie più belle della stagione si confrontano su due tematiche/approcci diversi. Puntano sul colore vivo e sull’ effetto opulenza anticrisi (Versace, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta); o viceversa scelgono un cöté più “understatement” che ha come soggetti, però, personaggi dello star system (Dolce&Gabbana, Lacoste, Prada) o dello sport (Dunhill); oppure, più semplicemente, workers (MCS Marlboro Classics).
The best advertising campaigns of the season are confronting each other on two different kind of approaches. With anti-crisis opulence and bright colours (Versace, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta), or viceversa leaning on the side of “understatement” but choosing sobjects directly from the star system, (Dolce & Gabbana, Lacoste, Prada), the sport scene (Dunhill) or more simply, workers (MCM Marlboro Classic).