We’re so formal. Do we have to expect a back to formal? Yes, we do. The codes will be different, but the suit will be a trend of f/w 2019; so we can say that the most loved style – the classic, indeed – is coming back, again. To understand how fashion is a countinuous series of quotes of itself, we need a quick review: what happened in the 80s? From the street style of the 70s, all about denim, fringes and fitted shirts, the silhouette was redesigned by padded shoulders and lots of colors, lots of excess. Maybe too much. Ten years later the new diktats avoid color and prefer the total black, and slim volumes for jackets, trousers and also ties, that passes from 12cms wide to 4. What happens today: we’re coming from an extreme street-style. Well, now we’re starting to aim for more tidiness and rigor. The first signals? The blazers with visible stitching and a lot of black. Is time to wipe the suit agin. Or to buy a new one.

The man in red. Red. The colour of passion. You can find it in every painting of Mondrian, in the square sections of the Rubik’s cube, in the Van Gogh’s fields of poppies, in Tiziano’s paintings. In nature we find it in flowers and fruit. It’s the colour of the sunset. And of the hateful tribal ritual of corrida. Red has dominated for decades the fashion world, in womenswear and menswear: just think about “Valentino red”. It has been the main colour of many collection of Comme des Garçons, Iceberg, Moschino and Versace. In the 90s red has stopped for a few seasons the black invasion of Prada and Helmut Lang. Today it emerges in spots in every variation, from cherry to wine, to the pop-red. In menswear and accessories: its moderated use, filtered by good taste (and wisdom) will give as a result a pleasant look. Only one red accessory, the tie (from themenissue.com)

In Genoa’s canvas stays the genius of Dior. … Continua a leggere →

RAF SIMONS
Gabardine croccante e imbottito e flanelle che sembrano ruvide, ma al tatto sono morbide. Colori accesi, contrasti e dettagli “importanti”. Le forme dei cappotti sono ad “A”.

SACAI
La collezione è frutto di un lavoro di ricerca sulle stoffe, ricercate e “vissute”. Bellissimo lo styling.

… Continua a leggere →