It’s James Bond’s 50th anniversary. There is nothing left to add to his proverbial elegance as a lot has already been written in the past fifty years, I could run the risk of repeating someone else’s comment. Although everyone likes the character and despite all Daniel Craig’s efforts to emulate James Bond’s famous aplomb, the truth is that through all of those years Agent 007 has always been devoted to conformism -he’s a proper english after all- from Sean Connery to Roger Moore, Pierce Brosnan and Timothy Dalton. Even George Lazenby in “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” had to wear the same old tuxedo a part from that one scene where he’s wearing a kilt. Nothing to object to: black saves everyone, and so does a tuxedo. However, having followed the saga, I have always found more interesting the “bad guys” looks. The most stylish ones have been Christopher Walken (A View to a Kill, 1985) and Mads Mikkelsenche in Casino Royale (2006) which made his appearance clad in a reassuring, yet original monochrome ton sur ton brown suit. I’m obviously expecting a lot from the next James Bond’s enemy: Javier Barden. We shall see.

It has been read and known of how music inspires fashion.We don’t hear as much talking about music being ispired by fashion, even though the bond is more visible. A perfect example are those songs that mention fashion designers: how not to remember Rino Gaetano, which in 1978 already couldn’t stand Cardin, Cartier and Gucci. During the next 20 years, the amount of dance songs idolizing big labels, (Gucci on top of them all) has been countless. At the end of the 70s, the tuscan brand along with Fiorucci, has appeared in one of the most popular hits of those days: “He’s the Greatest Dancer” by Sister Sledge. How many of have noticed another name being mentioned right before the two italian brands, a certain “Halston”? The Halston in question is Roy Halston Frowick (1932-1990) one of the best loved designers, famous since 1961. Since the early 70s his fashion work (exclusively for women) became a sex icon and he bacame the most awaited guest at the Studio 54. Still today, there are plenty of 70s references even in menswear.
Fashion designer Halston with Bianca Jagger and Liza Minnelli in the 70s, at Studio 54.

Franco Brusati (1922-1993) has been one of the first italian film directors treating homosexuality as an open matter. He was the directon and screenwriter the 1978 movie “To forget Venice”, which it’s just been restored and released uncut.(At that time a few full-frontal scenes have been censured). The movie is about this two gay couples (Mariangela Melato/Eleonora Giorgi – Erland Josephson/David Pontremoli) in the Veneto countryside. The story developes between past and present and the main character it’s the ex lirical singer Marta ( Ella Petri). The movie won a David di Donatello Award and it reaches some points of pure narrative poetry especially towards the end, it is a dated movie, but still very interesting and quite elegant, with that country chic styling.

CORNELIANI

Tessuti grezzi e abiti doppiopetto, dal grigio chiarissimo fino al bianco.

COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME

Meno dark e rock del solito. Oltre alla pelle, anche tessuti fluidi e cascanti.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Back to roots: con un casting sorprendente.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Forti richiami agli anni ’60: estremamente raffinata.

MARNI

Stampe grafiche e tridimensionali, Marni si (r)innova

JIL SANDER

Forse è ancora una collezione di “passaggio”: lo stile della precedente direzione creativa è ancora molto presente.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Aggressiva e modaiola. Contemporanea e futurista.

JOHN VARVATOS

“Sospesa” tra rimandi agli anni ’70 e il presente.

LES HOMMES

Forte, colorata, addolcita da uno styling più attuale.

NEIL BARRETT

Molto giovane e molto portabile.

VERSACE

Pazzescamente Versace. Più di così…