Nostalgic feeling. This stolen pic by Paolo di Paolo, a kind of ante-litteram Scott Schuman, is from 1960. The man you see in it, half-lying on the raling of the Fontana dei Fiumi in Piazza Navona, is composed in his uncomposure. He is Un-Composed. Probably the jacket is buttoned even if it’s single-breasted (that shouldn’t be buttoned), because otherwise it would dangle, adding more disorder. Probably, if this picture was set today, this man wouldn’t wear anything like this. Try to imagine: unlaced sneakers, baggy sweater, jeans or gym pants. Or shorts. And, of course, instead of the newspaper, he would hold an iPhone or iPad. Don’t you miss that ‘900 style?

A well displayed chronograph worn on top of a tailored shirt cuff. Then we have two precious rings- the first one it’s a remarkable ring (by Gucci), the second one it’s a wedding ring (by Chopard) classic regimental suspenders (by Brooks Brothers), tieclip (by Paul Smith) and of course the tie, regimental as well. All peculiarities that distinguish men which are included in the history of style, “the Lawyer” and John Kennedy, and objects that many of us are keeping in the drawer and not using anymore. The new traditional menswear it’s luxurious and strong, inspiring men to consider a style that is coming back: a determined contemporary man, with a  maniacal obsession with grooming, and a strong inclination for success. An ambitious kind of man, sometimes arrogant, which requires a polished look indeed. Such display of confidence can appear irritating but it doesn’t have to be condemned tout court: when it’s not exhibitionism  it’s just a form of  respect, for ourselves and  others.

La stagione in corso, che ha sfilato in passerella a gennaio, è il preludio dell’anno zero: dal prossimo vedremo – attraverso le collezioni primavera/estate che i magazine cominciano a pubblicare nei primi numeri del 2013 – che la moda uomo ha davvero voltato pagina. I primi dieci anni del 2000 sono stati di collaudo: da oggi si può parlare di coerenza stilistica, sebbene ogni maison abbia presentato e prodotto vestiti così diversi da azzerare completamente il vecchio concetto di macro tendenza. Tuttavia, in questo mix di proposte disparate e apparentemente lontane tra di loro, c’è uno slancio comune verso il futuro come non si vedeva  da più di vent’anni. Lo styling di queste foto di backstage, scattate durante un servizio fotografico in uscita a dicembre con abiti e accessori in vendita adesso, dimostra e anticipa un estro che appartiene ad una nuova era, fondata – speriamo – sul liberalismo e sulla bellezza.

This current season, (last january’s fashion shows) is a prelude to the year zero: by the next one we’ll notice -through the next S/S collections and by what magazines will publish by the very first issues of 2013- that menswear has really turned the page.The first ten years of 2000s have been a test. We can finally talk about stylistic coherence, although every maison has been introducing and producing pieces so very different from one another that the old concept of macro-trend has been reset. However, within the mix of suggestions which seem to be apparently so different and far from each other, there is such a strong push for the future as we haven’t seen one in more than 20 years.This backstage pictures has been taken during a fashion shoot that is going to be published in december, with accessories and clothes that are for sale right now, the styling discloses and reveals an inspiration which belongs to a new era, established -let’s hope so- on liberalism and beauty.

Total look Prada

Antonija Topic, Agenzia Women Direct. Ph Cristiano Miretti.

Sunglasses Chopard. Hair stylist Luca Lazzaro, Make Up Artist Silvana Belli.