Free Associations. I quote the guidelines of the Gianni Versace s/s 1985 menswear collection, from the book Gianni Versace. L’abito per pensare: “Since the collection’s feature is the free matching of the garments, as in the case of the outfit shown, we give indications about the different garments and not about this specific outfit”. The matching (or styling) is one of the key strenght of a designer’s conception. Or of his fashion, when it’s represented in magazines’ shootings, and interpreted by the stylist. The combination of stripes of this tartan pattern, matched with the little contrasting polka-dots on the trousers (picture), was one of the many reference codes of Versace: geometrical prints with positive/negative effect. Ideas that, in menswear, are back again, suggested by the most fashionable brands. Ph. by Claus Wickrath for L’Uomo Vogue (1985)

An autumn full of checks. … Continua a leggere →

Purist, contemporary. Man about town is one of the few magazines that don’t make too much of styling, following instead the inputs of the designers. In the picture 8above), for example, we notice a sweater by Cerruti 1881 (f/w 2013) designed by Aldo Maria Camillo. Since the debut (in june 2012) Camillo has showed a particular taste for geometric shapes and fluid fabrics. The s/s 2014 collection reconfirms him as one of the most refined and interesting designers of the moment: the show presents extraordinary sleeveless coats, with big necks that can be transformed in hoods and a play of multitasking button-fastening; and it alternates with stylistic coherence light sweaters to be worn outside of the trousers and formal, simple and clean suits. Cerruti 1881’s menswear is purist, but embellished by innovative ideas that represent contemporary fashion. And doesn’t recall in any way other collections, past or present.