Trench, Sealup, fw 2017/18

Oggetto di culto nel cinema (da Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, a Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy), il trench, realizzato tradizionalmente in gabardina, ma riproposto sulle passerelle in tessuti high-tech e colori vivaci, ha attraversato le epoche e resta un essenziale del guardaroba maschile.
Dall’inglese trench coat, ovvero cappotto da trincea, lo troviamo qui in due scatti. Il primo, realizzato per The Men Issue da Michele Gastl, vede protagonista un trench in cotone foderato doppiopetto della collezione fall/winter 17/18 di Sealup (foto di Michele Gastl). Nel secondo scatto, realizzato (da Federico Miletto, con styling di Luca Roscini) per il numero di gennaio/febbraio 2010 di Style Magazine, il trench è firmato Burberry Prorsum, marchio britannico che ha fatto proprio questo capo di abbigliamento, rendendolo, con la sua fodera a stampa check, un feticcio per gli amanti della moda e del vintage.
Detto anche impermeabile, con allacciatura a doppiopetto, spesso con manica raglan e cintura in vita, è un passe-partout della mezza stagione. Styling e testo di Giovanni de Ruvo

Trench, Burberry Prorsum, ss 2010

Iconic in several movies (from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, to Warren Beatty in Dick Tracy), the trench, … Continua a leggere →

Vintage Generation. Some people call it “Vintage Generation”, others brush off the most fashionable style at the moment defining it “gender”, ignoring the meaning of this word. In the second case, this is a label given with negative meaning: ignorance produces confusion. For the may issue of Style Magazine we met and photographed Thomas Cohen, “songwriter, dandy, bohemian from London”; a rising talent that look like he’s just left a cover of a Bowie’s or Jagger’s disc. But let’s talk about this trend that, instead of emphasizing muscles and wide shoulders, focus the feminine side of men (in both men and women, hetero or homosexual, coexist a feminine and a masculine parts). Michele (Gucci), Maier (Bottega Veneta), Venturini Fendi and Prada (Miuccia has been a forerunner), has created collections inspired by the 70s, bringing back to fashion a combinable/decomposable styling. A mosaic that reminds us the most refined looks of the stars of the day. Avoiding denim. Thomas Cohen, in a picture by Simon for Style Magazine Italia, wears Bottega Veneta.

The man in red. Red. The colour of passion. You can find it in every painting of Mondrian, in the square sections of the Rubik’s cube, in the Van Gogh’s fields of poppies, in Tiziano’s paintings. In nature we find it in flowers and fruit. It’s the colour of the sunset. And of the hateful tribal ritual of corrida. Red has dominated for decades the fashion world, in womenswear and menswear: just think about “Valentino red”. It has been the main colour of many collection of Comme des Garçons, Iceberg, Moschino and Versace. In the 90s red has stopped for a few seasons the black invasion of Prada and Helmut Lang. Today it emerges in spots in every variation, from cherry to wine, to the pop-red. In menswear and accessories: its moderated use, filtered by good taste (and wisdom) will give as a result a pleasant look. Only one red accessory, the tie (from themenissue.com)

Natural, fantastic. An environmentalist outburst? Escapism wish? Feel of lightness and colour? Between this season’s trend there are lots of flowers, animals and colour, sketched and printed on knitwear, outerwear, accessories. Some of them remind us english tapestry and Hermès ceramics; others remind us the real and imaginary “bestiary” we can find in European art from the Middle Age to the beginning of the 20th Century (just to mention: the artist Fortunato Depero). A contemporary reinterpretation of menswear full of charm and references to figurative art: from the eighteenth-century centaurs by Giandomenico Tiepolo to now, in full second decade of the 21st Century. Many of the creations of that fashion designers inspired by animalier and/or flower power mood are and will remain little masterpieces, iconic objects of an inspired and prolific era of menswear. And they will last in time just like everything that – in its category – represents creativity and uniqueness.