Many men wish they could look like someone else. There’s who prefers Steve McQueen, or Marcello Mastroianni; who dreams to be Jude Law, or Colin Firth. They are male audience’s favourite actors, so I gather that their classic style is the successful one. It’s not a coincidence that styling’s simplicity and shapes’ linearity are the common denominators of avant-garde designers’ collections, except for rare cases. Advertising campaigns and “strong” window fittings are ideas’ displays that strenghten the image’s media power but, in those same shops that propose that creative level destined for selected connoisseur, there are suits dedicated to timeless demand. Choose your attire paying special attention on modernity (“classic” is not sinonimo of antique, but you can’t keep on wearing the long jacket if now it has shortened), and, above all, try to be nothing else that yourselves. Marcello Mastroianni in 1979 on the set of “La città delle donne”, shot by Tazio Secchiaroli.

His physical attributes remind us of Marc Porel and Mark Frechette, the main carachter in “Zabriskie Point” : I am talking about Marco Bocci, better known as police commissioner Scialoja (from the tv serie Romanzo Criminale) or deputy police superintendent Calcaterra ( from Squadra Antimafia). He’s from Umbria like Filippo Timi, good looking like Alain Delon and versatile like Giancarlo Giannini. He’s also very polite, empathetic and professional on photographic sets. He’s not very tall and that makes it easier for us to “dress him up” in the biggest brands as they never make samples for the lanky ones. He’s gifted with natural charm. He has that look, long hair and a little bit of beard, which remind us of a 70s aesthetic that is coming back into fashion, more for the look itself than for the clothing. He looks very good in jacket and tie but he does prefere a more casual outfit in everyday life, choosing easy and wearable clothing in order not to draw much attention to his figure. Although, he does, have a nice figure.

Autumn/Winter 1994: the “second half” of the campaign, in the advertising language. The outerwear style was still very similar to the 80s one with its big volumes, so far from the tight-fitting one that came along with the new decade and changed completely the men wardarobe. Same goes for trousers, shirts and ties. And of course the waistcoat which used to dominate the fashion scene: knitted, deconstructed or made of fabric but always loose-fitting and never tight. Shooting locations were basically non existent, neutral backgrounds and quite natural lighting. The main peculiarity has been the models attitude: intimist, thoughtful, reflective. Sometimes photographed with the eyes closed, like the top model Werner, (on top) shot by Mario Sorrenti for Dolce&Gabbana. Photographer Max Vudukul, shooting for Romeo Gigli (another waistcoat fan), has been aiming for the melancholic feeling expressed by the model’s eyes, staring beyond the horizon…

Da ieri, a Milano, i brand più noti hanno presentato le collezioni per il prossimo autunno inverno.
Nelle foto che vedete c’è una prima selezione, fotografata in questo primo giorno di press day da Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, dalla quale emerge anzitutto il ritorno del chiodo in pelle; mentre le maison di abbigliamento sport e casual sembrano prediligere i colori fluorescenti e decisi, anche per gli accessori che spesso mischiano la pelle al tessuto. I brand più conservativi, invece, puntano su tessuti, fantasie e accessori di consolidata tradizione anglosassone come il Galles, lo spinato e il cashmere a coste.

In Milan yesterday started the “Press Day week”: during these days, the most important brand present next F/W collections.
Here below you can find a selection from the first day, that has been shot by Luca Roscini, Andrea Porro e Angelica Pianarosa, that makes appear over all that studded leather jacket  is back. The leisure and sport brands seem to prefer fluo and strong colors even for accessories creating – sometimes – a mix of leather and fabric. The most conservative brands focus on the most timeless english fabrics and accessories, like the Prince of Wales, herringbone and ribbed cashmere.

Chiodo di pelle in versione classica, Tommy Hilfiger

Chido-gilet di pelle con collo di pelo, Yves Saint Laurent

Brogue blu, Salvatore Ferragamo

Cardigan di Cashmere con piuma d’oca all’interno, Brunello Cucinelli

Palette colori, Duvetica

Cravatte in maglia colori autunnali, Gallo

Borsoni weekend, Andrea Incontri

Tessuti fantasia, Luigi Bianchi Mantova

Camicie in flanella, Lee

Bomber, G-Star

Sneakers in pelle e lana, Vans

Camicie e bomber, Wrangler

Adidas by Jeremy Scott