William Faulkner, scrittore, poeta, drammaturgo e sceneggiatore statunitense (1897-1962), premio Nobel per la letteratura nel 1949, considerato il rivale di Hemingway. Uno scatto intimista, rubato in un momento di relax,in un posto che potrebbe essere dovunque, lo ritrae in atteggiamento pensoso: l’autore della foto è sconosciuto. Sembra che stia fissando qualcosa o qualcuno di molto lontano, il contegno è misurato ed elegante; una dignità che appartiene decisamente solo ad uomini vissuti in un tempo remoto: è un ritratto che mi ha colpito. Quell’apparente distacco emotivo che non tradisce i sentimenti e uno stile nel sensopiù largo del termine che riguardano al passato, oggi solo accidentalmente trovano un riscontro reale; mi vengono in mente di nuovo uomini di una volta, come Visconti e Pasolini. L’unico italiano contemporaneo cui penso d’istinto, che rappresenta nei modi e nell’attitudine un tratto così nobile, è il giovane e bravo giornalista Angelo Flaccavento. Il contesto si è fatto serio e nostalgico, mi pare riduttivo scrivere frasi del genere “ecco i vestiti più consoni per unire la classe alla disinvoltura”. Tanto più che, la classe, non si apprende.

Denim has been surprising us for over 50 years and it’s not over yet. At this point we all know that the fabric was born in the 17th century as an excellent material for making working clothes. From 1900 denim has been used for everyday clothing. It’s been one of the tangible symbols of the youth revolution and over time became part of designers’ collections, especially during the 80s and 90s when entire collections have been dedicated to denim. But the most important thing to consider is that denim is ageless, it can be used by young people as much as by the over 50s. It has lost all its ideological values over time, now it can be worn by anyone and it has no gender identity. The “Blue Jeans” exhibition inaugurated last november at the Centraal Museum of Utrecht by head of art direction of dutch brand G- Star Pierre Morisset, will be open to the public until march 10. The exhibition shows the history and evolution of denim through all the experimental and creative aspects, from the beginning till today. Denim menswear has not lost its sheen, being suggested every season with different treatments, colors and shapes and also for accessories.

The filmography of Eriprando Visconti (1932-1995) encompasses only ten movies which have been filmed during the 60s until the last one, shot in 1982. Visconti, nephew of the more famous Luchino, won the critics’ choice award at Venice Film Festival when he started off in 1961 with “A Milanese Story” but never became widely known to the general public and that’s why it’s hard to remember him. The 1977 movie “Una Spirale di Nebbia”, based on the Michele Prisco’s novel by the same name, which I have now miraculously found in DVD, really affected me as a kid. Although the memory kept taking me back to the scenes of integral nudity that surprisingly haven’t been censured (Novecento by Bertolucci came out the very same year) and the audacity of the contents, I also remember very well the intimist and plush atmosphere..foggy indeed, built around the screenplay and the storyline. It’s a crude and realist plot, laying bare the Milanese upper class hypocrisy. A very contemporary film. Today more than yesterday. In the picture, a scene from the movie with Marc Porel.

“Stormbringer” is the funkiest Deep Purple’s album. It came out at the end of 1974 in full “austerity” period, reaching a breaking point with hard rock: the homonym single was as danceable as “Smoke on the Water” from the older album “Made in Japan ” but more soul. The visual impact of the illustration on the cover was suggesting a stormy scenario (although the title was exhaustive enough) and a statement of intent throught the use of colors, mainly purple, yellow and orange. Such cover desearves to be included among the strongest in history of discography, it represent contemporary anxiety in its very own way addressing several analogies with a certain kind of fashion aesthetic which is currently in style for men’s clothing. In the picture the cover of “Stormbringer” by Deep Purple.

DIRK BIKKEMBERGS

 Il brand riparte da questa collezione: è perfettamente in armonia tra abbigliamento sportivo e fashion.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Con questa collezione, Armani si rivolge ad un uomo che segue le tendenze della moda.

 TOD’S

Lusso ostentato e distintivo

… Continua a leggere →