Natural, fantastic. An environmentalist outburst? Escapism wish? Feel of lightness and colour? Between this season’s trend there are lots of flowers, animals and colour, sketched and printed on knitwear, outerwear, accessories. Some of them remind us english tapestry and Hermès ceramics; others remind us the real and imaginary “bestiary” we can find in European art from the Middle Age to the beginning of the 20th Century (just to mention: the artist Fortunato Depero). A contemporary reinterpretation of menswear full of charm and references to figurative art: from the eighteenth-century centaurs by Giandomenico Tiepolo to now, in full second decade of the 21st Century. Many of the creations of that fashion designers inspired by animalier and/or flower power mood are and will remain little masterpieces, iconic objects of an inspired and prolific era of menswear. And they will last in time just like everything that – in its category – represents creativity and uniqueness.

The sporty jacket, a fundamental choice. … Continua a leggere →

Brioni’s “dandy”, anything but ordinary. … Continua a leggere →

Bomber Brioni f/w 2014/15 

Brendan Mullane fonde in maniera magistrale la sapienza del bespoke con i codici dell’abbigliamento nipponico. Colori e stampe degli antichi kimono riprendono vita su abiti e capispalla; così aironi dipinti a mano campeggiano sul bomber in raso. A cura di Angelica Pianarosa, Foto Michele Gastl.

Brendan Mullane … Continua a leggere →

The logo, this well-known. Tom Ford even “drew” the G of Gucci on the most intimate part of the model. The sharp journalist Natalia Aspesi didn’t come forward with positive or negative comments, but she declared, lapidary: “Tom Ford has found the G-spot”. But that was an adv. What happens if the mere mortal, not a mannequin or a celebrity, completely primps with logos, randomly and everywhere? “Logoed” garments, especially for men, are fairly dangerous: it’s easy to drift into vulgarity, and to show a lack of personality. A completely different matter when the logo is shown in a moderate way and when it appears only once in the outfit, for example on the belt buckle, or on the briefcase, maybe on a leather or metal bracelet. To sum up, style is recognisable also in sobriety and good taste used to show the “object of desire”. In this case, the logo is welcome. The initials of Louis Vuitton carved in stone (project of Barthélémy & Griño).