May 1997: the concept of unisex fashion had already been strongly adopted by young people, but Shalom Harlow, photographed for Versace Jeans Couture adv by Steven Meisel, was there to remember how a denim men shirt could be feminine.
“Clothes with emotion”, this is what Lucas Ossendrijver was seeking in this collection. So, for the s/s 2009, he played with volumes and genders (yes, he did it in 2009 – even though the ambiguous vein was already a signature of Lanvin’s menswear): pleates, ruches, elastics, sinuous fabrics, big vs. narrow volumes, beaded tees.
An unusual black and white for a designer that made the color (and colored stripes, even only for details) his distinguishing feature; a b/w that represents that line called, in the early Nineties, “Suit”: formal, tailored, but with that touch of extravagance emphasized by the pose and the point of view.
So Nineties: the mood, the attitude, the silhouette, the sunglasses. The 1995 advertising campaign of Arnold Zimberg New York shot by Aldo Fallai.
Fall/Winter 2008: the Prada menswear collection was a skillful mix of sobriety and fetishism. Here the look with the double collar, shot in the campaign by Steven Meisel. Model Patrick Petitjean.
Alessandro Calascibetta has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L'Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became Fashion Director at Harper's Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli. Since january 2015 he is the Editor in Chief of Style Magazine, and still remains as Man Fashion Director for Io Donna and Sette.
