The last uniform. Fashion inspired by military uniforms is a trend surviving through years, especially in menswear. At first designers took from them just the details, like the insignias that Gianfranco Ferré put on coats’ shoulders; later, in the 90s, Prada, Costume National Homme, Jil Sander and Dolce&Gabbana made entire collections based on charm and sensuality of this inspiration using simple and rough fabrics. Then, the fabrics became softer and dyed in blue, beige, even red, neglecting the original color, military green, indeed. Today is a trend that recalls the rock movements of the 70s, far away from the citation of Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket. Just look at the jacket designed by Kim Jones for Dior Homme photographed by Letizia Ragno for Style Magazine.

(Un)dressed to work. Countries more conscious than USA and Europe about environment and energy saving, Japan on top, impose that even in the middle of summer the temperature in offices mustn’t be lower than 26°C. What does it mean in terms of clothing? Considering the amount of men that use to wear suit and tie in offices, I’ll suggest an equally decent dress code without jacket, that allows gentlemen not to suffer for heat during working time. Let’s start from the top: no jacket, so no tie; opt for a shirt, made of popeline (better than linen), or for a (beautiful) polo shirt – please don’t lift the collar – blue, white or green. Elegant loafers with matching socks and light wool trousers. The belt is important to complete the look: avoid black leather (same thing for shoes) and prefer natural crocodile or brown napa leather. The buckle has to be discreet, otherwise without jacket it’ll be noticed for sure.

Nostalgic feeling. This stolen pic by Paolo di Paolo, a kind of ante-litteram Scott Schuman, is from 1960. The man you see in it, half-lying on the raling of the Fontana dei Fiumi in Piazza Navona, is composed in his uncomposure. He is Un-Composed. Probably the jacket is buttoned even if it’s single-breasted (that shouldn’t be buttoned), because otherwise it would dangle, adding more disorder. Probably, if this picture was set today, this man wouldn’t wear anything like this. Try to imagine: unlaced sneakers, baggy sweater, jeans or gym pants. Or shorts. And, of course, instead of the newspaper, he would hold an iPhone or iPad. Don’t you miss that ‘900 style?

Forever pinstripe. If it’s true that rules are made to be broken, it’s also true that the suit is the basis of menswear. Into reasonable limits, elegance of the past remains an unavoidable reference. Basing on many and different suggestions of fashion, we can opt for our favourite reference, avoiding others. Pinstripe is a classic: the picture I’ve chosen for this week has a cinematographic mood, inspired by Il Padrino. Not to highlight the vintage glamour of the pinstriped suit, choose a jacket with very wide lapels and add a rock touch, like the silver rings. And a clean grooming: no to long and blow-dried hair, no to pomade, yes to a military cut. But the last word is, as always, yours.

Beyond black. Mickey Rourke in a shot of 23 years ago by Stephanie Pfriender Stylander, published by Entertainment Weekly when the movie Fall Time was out in cinemas. Rourke, still handsome, sexy and transgressive, with nail enamel, cigarette and alluring gaze, was wearing a total black look by Giorgio Armani. Black: it is said that you never go wrong with black. It is almost true, but not completely: it’s just less easy to fail. Considering that the only possible alternative is not the bright, showy color, for rockstars, but even the most traditional brands suggest soft shades like dull green, light brown, burgundy, it’s possible (well, it’s a duty actually) to find the courage to abandon the guidelines compliant with rules of a way of dressing that’s obsolete by now.