Contemporary dandy’s aesthetic.

How many times have you read the sentence “for this season, the designer’s concept was contemporary dandy”? I heard this phrase a lot.Too often I hear people talking about dandyism as soon as a three pieces suit with pocket handkerchief and tie shows up.Too many times dandys are erroneously mentioned in the presence of an impeccable suit, to emphasize a classic look that has been edited and re-edited over and over.
“Dandyism”, back in the days and still today, is more than just a look. It was born in the XIX century as a pro-individualistic cultural movement, with a transgressive and eccentric attitude and despise for omologation. The look, unconventional and sophisticated just came as a conseguence. Designers like Etro, Westwood and Van Noten always loved the style of this (rare) kind of man. It is a very strong aesthetic this year thanks to the Prada and Dolce & Gabbana fall/winter collections: the first one with an intellectual touch and refined details, the second one more formal and all about manufacturing and richness of the fabrics. Picture from the Dali’ inspired Style’s editorial.The autor is Jacopo Moschin, dressing gown by Etro Home Collection.

Men look good in white. French.

The “A history of Men’s Fashion” volume by Ferid Chenoune it’s a must for every fashion insider’s library.I refere to it a lot, not just to find inspiration for my shootings.Once I was flipping through the pages, and a picture from the 30s grabbed my attention.It was Tino Risi ( french singer and actor) in white double brested .
This portrait has a touching haze, that flawless artist’s style, that suit simply amazing.
But the total white is old fashionable and even too evocative of seaside landscapes and Riviera to be weared in the city.There is a secret to be able to wear a total white and to not seem ridicolous, a strong personality and gentle somatic traits.The rest is attitude.Beauty has nothing to do with it, it’s all about non chalance.A good way of going white it’s not to feel exceptional for wearing an exceptional outfit, otherwise you will fell everyone’s eyes on you and the awkwardness will be tangible.
At the end of the day non chalance is the key, which unfortunately is rarely proper of italian men.The model of this week’s picture is in fact french, just like Rossi.

Ph. Michael Woolley, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta. Grooming Maurizio Lucchese.

Ph. Michael Woolley, Styling Alessandro Calascibetta.