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SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE L’IRRESISTIBILE FASCINO DEL CARDIGAN

The most common alternative to a suit it’s a cardigan, which is a buttoned pullover. A woolen blazer instead of one made of cloth, makes your outfit look less severe, and helps you get a soft, reassuring figure. I only recommend not to wear this outfit if you want to dress to impress or if you’e about to have a meeting where you wish to show how confident and professional you are. In that case you should go for a suit. A short cardigan sweater, Is more related to a classic way of dressing, it defines your body structure and it always works, even for those shorter than average height. A longer cardigan which goes down over your belt, would fit more taller non-skinny men. Less common and more modern but harder to match (Never wear it with close fitting trousers for example). Giorgio Armani has been proposing it so many times because it well represents the Armani-man’s identity: not taller than 1.85 cm, with big shoulders and strong legs.You can see the result from yourself in the picture: it’s a timeless look. Hard to resist. Picture taken with Instagram from a 2001 “Uomo” editorial. Original picture by Norman Watson.

L’UOMO VOGUE SETTEMBRE 1986

Questo scatto di Peter Lindbergh fa parte di un monografico dedicato alla Cina uscito nell’autunno del 1986. Le stringate in pelle scamosciata con para alta di Cesare Paciotti erano un must dell’epoca. Il trench-coat di Reporter con le maniche ampie sarebbe giustissimo per oggi.

This shot by Peter Lindbergh is part of a Monograph on China released in the fall of 1986. The lace up shoes in suede with an high para by Cesare Paciotti were a must of the time. The trench-coat by Reporter with wide sleeves would be perfect also today.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE IRRINUNCIABILE DESIDERIO DI SETTANTA

YEARS OF LEAD

The 70s aesthetic has always been dear to me, and is not even just because of anagraphic reasons. I like it because it has been an expression of freedom. That generation had a strong desire to break up with the past and a need to think outside the boxes that was showing through their look. In the meantime the typical italian man, stereotyped as being manly with pomade in his hair, was disappointed. However, it has been a charming style revolution and we still do appreciate it, since cyclically it comes back into fashion. The first brand to ebrace that 70s look has been Louis Vuitton, which in 2000 chose a face for its new campign that could have been spotted out in a student demonstration. The model was Bill Gentle, who’s now a photographer living in the USA. Bill is also the sobject of this week’s picture, from an old 2002 “Uomo” editorial. The styling was all about the years of lead: when handmaded parkas and pullovers were considered “left wing” outfits. Picture taken with Instagram, original shot by Francesca Lotti for “L’Uomo” 2002. Eskimo coat by Fendi and pullover by Yohij Yamamoto.

PREVIEW MAX SETTEMBRE 2012