GOOD VS. BAD (STYLING)

GQ GERMANIA

Si: Un volto fresco e l’aria di chi si prende poco sul serio esaltano la straordinarietà di un mix super fashion e bellissimo come questo.

No: I pantaloni risvoltati hanno fatto il loro tempo, soprattutto se le scarpe sono di 2 numeri più grandi della misura dell’indossatore: effetto Pippo.

L’UOMO VOGUE

No: Un pasticcio di stili diversi e il cavallo dei pantaloni troppo basso rendono assolutamente inelegante il bravo attore.

Si: Il giovane talento di Hollywood Shia LaBeouf rende credibile uno styling elaborato, d’effetto e molto curato nei dettagli.

L’OFFICIEL HOMMES Italia

Sì: Pulito, deciso, secco. Graficamente impeccabile la resa fotografica aiutata dalla moda: giusta per il modello e per la luce che è stata usata.

No: Casting scontato per un look a strati troppo manieristico e autoreferenziale.

FANTASTIC MAN

No: Il soggetto della foto non rispecchia lo stile dell’abito e lascia intuire che gli stava stretto: effetto Il Sabato del Villaggio.


Sì: Tutto perfetto nella sua semplicità. Perfetto per lui e per il contesto.

Sì: L’abito sembra fatto su misura per lui anche se è un po’ “vuoto” sotto il giromanica. Però il velluto liscio rende il total più prezioso.


No: Troppo basso di statura, lo styling è forzato. Almeno non chiudetegli il collo!…e che la lunghezza dei pantaloni sia giusta….

… Continua a leggere →

MONDO UOMO 1988

In those fabulous years fashion was stunning, and Fabrizio Ferri was one of the greatest italian fashion photographers. Pants by Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the first revolutionary menswear designer. Shoes by Cesare Paciotti.

SCHEMA LIBERO ADVERTISING

Autumn/Winter 1994: the “second half” of the campaign, in the advertising language. The outerwear style was still very similar to the 80s one with its big volumes, so far from the tight-fitting one that came along with the new decade and changed completely the men wardarobe. Same goes for trousers, shirts and ties. And of course the waistcoat which used to dominate the fashion scene: knitted, deconstructed or made of fabric but always loose-fitting and never tight. Shooting locations were basically non existent, neutral backgrounds and quite natural lighting. The main peculiarity has been the models attitude: intimist, thoughtful, reflective. Sometimes photographed with the eyes closed, like the top model Werner, (on top) shot by Mario Sorrenti for Dolce&Gabbana. Photographer Max Vudukul, shooting for Romeo Gigli (another waistcoat fan), has been aiming for the melancholic feeling expressed by the model’s eyes, staring beyond the horizon…

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE COME ERAVAMO RIGIDI NEGLI ANNI NOVANTA

The only true innovation which marked a big change in menswear during the 90’s has been the introduction of technological treatments on fabrics. With the wisdom of hindsight we now know that minimalism has been a reaction to the opulence of the prior decade more than a proper trend and that it has been lacking in new ideas. The Special finishes applied to improve the fabrics and make them waterproof, windproof, thermal and antitranspirant improved functionality but made the clothes look stiff. Whoever says that in order to be fashionable one must suffer a little is probably right but there are limits. Unfortunately, the technological invasion degenerated into a quite common and not very elegant casual wear which has left behind the typical exibitionism of the paninaro movement yet also a style which was determined by the beauty of particular materials and by a confident lifestyle and personality which later on have been classified as part of the past. However, it has been also a style which achieved outstanding excellence in pieces like the waxed cotton trench in the picture, realized with a keen eye for details and wearability in order to preserve the outerwear smoothness and avoid the resemblance to a shapeless armour. Nowadays the problem has been solved, thanks to the experience which taught us how to combine that certain comfort and class. Gabriel Aubry wears Allegri, picture by Rennio for Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, 1997.

PREVIEW MAX MAGAZINE DECEMBER ISSUE