SCHEMA LIBERO QUALCOSA DI BLU

Blue Snowdon it’s a photographic volume containing a selection of portraits by Lord Snowdon. Born in London in 1930, he married princess Margaret and separated from her in 1978. The publication starts with this line: “You don’t have a green shirt, white is too bright, black too funeral and I like blue” signed by the author; The subjects portrayed are people in the showbiz, fashion and art industry like Jeremy Irons, Calvin Klein, Joe Tilson and of course the British Royal Family feauturing a very young Harry from a photo taken in the year 2000. They are all wearing something blue. The book edited by Acne Studio Stockholm it’s an iconographic collection dedicated to the most classic color in menswear since the 1930s. The tecnique of simplicity ( which is a peculiarity of great photographers) and the use of natural locations, (as they are mostly studio and daylight shootings on location), increase the elegance of the pictures and also our personal perception of the color blue as part of our everyday life. Only one weird ecception: the Gainsbourg and Britt Ekland pictures are in Black and white. David Bowie on the cover of the book.

STILISTI PER MAX

Ho chiesto una dedica per Max ai maggiori esponenti italiani del menswear (ma in corso d’opera si sono perfino aggiunti spontaneamente un paio di designer che disegnano solo abbigliamento femminile!!). Perchè una dedica a Max? Perché è un giornale storico che racconta l’Italia da 28 anni, e almeno la metà delle pagine che sono state pubblicate in tutto questo tempo, sono dedicate alla moda. Il 7 maggio “compio” dieci anni di Rizzoli, dove ho imparato a dare valore a molte cose, che prima snobbavo. Tra tutte quelle che ho appreso, la più importante è il rispetto per i lettori, per il loro gusto e per le loro esigenze: e ogni giorno, continuo a imparare qualcosa di nuovo, che aumenta il mio entusiasmo per questo straordinario lavoro che ho avuto la fortuna di fare. Grazie a tutti voi, amici della moda, e al tempo che avete dedicato a Max.

I have been asking to the major italian  designers of menswear a dedication for Max (and they have been joined by a few womenswear designers as well!!). Why a dedication for Max? Because it’s an historic magazine, which have been narrating Italy since 28 years ago. At least half of its pages are all about fashion.The 7th of may I will be celebrating ten years with Rizzoli, where I have learned the true value of many things I have been snobbing before. First of all consideration for our readers, their taste and their demands. Every day I keep learning something new, increasing my enthusiasm for this marvellous job which I am so lucky to have. Thank you everyone, friends of fashion and thanks for the time you have spent reading Max.

A.C.

M 2006

Total look Versace: this dashing picture floats a masculine kind of Haute-Couture. Photo by Johan Sandberg.

SCHEMA LIBERO SHABBY (MA NON TROPPO)

His physical attributes remind us of Marc Porel and Mark Frechette, the main carachter in “Zabriskie Point” : I am talking about Marco Bocci, better known as police commissioner Scialoja (from the tv serie Romanzo Criminale) or deputy police superintendent Calcaterra ( from Squadra Antimafia). He’s from Umbria like Filippo Timi, good looking like Alain Delon and versatile like Giancarlo Giannini. He’s also very polite, empathetic and professional on photographic sets. He’s not very tall and that makes it easier for us to “dress him up” in the biggest brands as they never make samples for the lanky ones. He’s gifted with natural charm. He has that look, long hair and a little bit of beard, which remind us of a 70s aesthetic that is coming back into fashion, more for the look itself than for the clothing. He looks very good in jacket and tie but he does prefere a more casual outfit in everyday life, choosing easy and wearable clothing in order not to draw much attention to his figure. Although, he does, have a nice figure.

SETTE MAGAZINE EN VOGUE IL MASCHIO NON E’ PRONTO PER L’EXTRALARGE

This week’s picture is taken from an old editorial inspired by Serge Gainsbourg, the bad boy of french pop. They say he was an arrogant and violent men and that he lived a wild lifestyle. He has been labelled  “beautiful and damned”  although that definition does not fit him that much.. not very handsome, perhaps damned.  Anyway his shabby style, not to say almost dirty-looking, it’s still somehow quite attractive. Often shady and eccentric men have been put on a pedestal and considered icons, even if Gainsbourg could hardly be called an artists or an uncommon person, his style it’s being re-proposed to represent a certain nonchalant fashion.  Tom Ford In 2002 , during his time as creative director for Gucci, designed a collection feauturing extremely comfortable silhouettes made from soft and fluid materials like jersey and cloth fabric. The reviews were enthusiastic and stylists have been fighting each other in order to get pictures of the sample collection.However the expected results did not materialize as the end consumers weren’t “ready”. I have been writing about how oversized fashion it’s being randomly re-proposed and about how it still can’t find its way to the public’s heart, for now. I personally love it, but must admit that it’s hard to reset yourself so drastically. Photo by Babic from “Uomo” 2002. Clothing by Gucci.