MAX 2010
The shooting was titled “Chiaro-Scuro” (“Light and Shades”), to focalize Walter Chin mastery to create stunning studio lights. Clothes by Valentino.
The shooting was titled “Chiaro-Scuro” (“Light and Shades”), to focalize Walter Chin mastery to create stunning studio lights. Clothes by Valentino.
Alfie (and the pleasures of Bacchus). Alcoholic drinks’ adv pictures are charming; the subject is often a man wearing clothes so elegant to be the envy of Alfie (you can choose the first Alfie interpreted by Michael Caine or the remake one by Jude Law). The man in question is self-confident, serious, calm, done up. Spirits manufacturers clearly “represent” the alcohol addicteds before the bender: flawless appearance, persuasive and resolute gaze. No references to crushing effects on metabolism, organs and psyche. The popular adage “A glass of wine a day keeps the doctor away” is unfounded, while the fact that alcohol hurts everything is demonstrated. I dare an advice: alcohol campaigns should be accompanied by the same phrase that we read on packs of cigarettes: “dangerous for the health, consult your doctor”. On the right, the artist Geoffrey Holder in a vodka adv campaign (1958).
Touches of colour to change personality. The subject of colour in menswear has been took on, exploited and enhanced by every fashion journalist, depicted in every way by fashion editors: we keep on doing it because red, yellow, turquoise, orange, blue, mustard and saffron yellow carry on dictating the pop trend for men. Designers offer several ideas that light up fantasy: we really want to break up grey or blue with a coloured pull, maybe matched with the briefcase. While colours of suits and coats – in the majority- stay on traditional, knitwear, shirts, ties and a lot of leather accessories brighten up the outfit and suggest new ideas. In this multicoloured scenario, the sportswear plays at home; and, infact, the outdoor wear does its best in the surprising fusion between colour – usually associated to technical fabrics like nylon and lycra – and fine fabrics, generally used in casual-chic wear. An example? The beautiful sweatshirt made of cotton piquè (the fabric of polo shirts) by Lacoste and protagonist of the published picture. The shot effect, intentionally overexposed, enhance the garment’s fashion content but tricks us about the quality of fabric that is, indeed, really elegant. In this picture by Francesco Bertola for max.gazzetta.it, the songwriter Giovanni Caccamo wears a total look by Lacoste.
A superb styling, a great impact shot by Michael Woolley. Clothes by Strenesse and Yohij Yamamoto and accessories by Yamamoto, Jil Sander and Dior Homme (still designed by Hedi Slimane).
The right intuition. Years ago I had to find an idea to unite the entire issue of the magazine I directed: every two months, the magazine had a single subject that involved every part of it, from the various columns to fashion, up to news and even the horoscope. I was in Paris for fashion shows, and Paul Smith displayed his collection in a swimming pool: chlorine smell, the dives sound, and the idea arrived, water. What I mean is that you can be everywhere, in every circumstance and you can have an eureka moment that solves a little enigma when you least expect it. A scent, a noise, a colour, sometimes can be enough. Who has a mind open to every spark, especially who – like me – has the privilege of having a creative job, can have the right intuition everywhere. Paul Smith was right, when he entitled his volume “You can find inspiration in everything”, and in his honour this week we’ve shot some pieces of cloth among the most brilliant and fascinating that I found in the winter collections. The cover of Paul Smith’s book.